It was a early start to the day and we all felt pretty miserable and we where not looking forward to our 12 hour bus journey. But we went to the beach had a nice day and had a nice dinner and we felt not so nervous about the bus journey.

We got back from the beach and had a shower, but we all had to use the same towel, and we got in the taxi to take us to the bus station. We waited for about 25 minutes and finally the bus came we thought it was the big roomy one but dad took us to the small cramped one with no working lights and filthy sheets, but we made it through the night luckily.

We arrive at the bus station in Mangalore and try to ring a guesthouse recommended in The Lonely Planet but it is full so we ask the rickshaw driver to take us to The Hotel Parkway that Simon found on the internet yesterday. It turns out to be nice and we take one large room with three single beds all pushed together. There is a TV which we have all missed especially Maisie and by 7.30 am we have showered and lie on the giant bed watching a film with Ben Afleck called Surviving Christmas.

Mangalore is on the west coast of India in the state of Karnataka and only 15km from Kerala which is where we are heading. We are going to try and book our onwards train tickets later but don’t want to travel overnight tomorrow. We go out for breakfast but can’t find anywhere open apart from a hotel over the road so we go there. They are advertising a New Years Eve party, interestingly with an African theme and are selling it as the looniest and craziest bash in town. As it will cost under twenty quid and is only over the road with live music and food and drinks included I guess we will probably go for that.

When we are walking back to The Hotel Parkway I’m upset to get groped by some fella. He pretended to bump me and then stepped in front of me and stuck his hand in between my legs. It happens so quickly and although I shouted at him and shoved him on the back he just waltzes off like nothing happened and although Simon and Ali are only just a few steps ahead they never even noticed.

I’m not easily offended but I feel really pissed off about it and angry. I haven’t dressed skimpily anywhere except Goa’s beaches where it is acceptable and would like to have to the opportunity to tell the cheeky sod where to get off. Still I think you have to keep it in perspective and not get too uptight about it. After all I had read that many female travellers get sexually harassed in India and until this point we have had a relatively hassle free time.

We spend the day dossing around, we have searched the book for somewhere of interest to visit whilst here but there really aren’t any attractions to speak of. I guess it’s like visiting Derby having been spoilt in London. The train that we need to get to Kerala only runs three times a week though, so we are stuck here and will use the time to catch up on some school work.

We have an early dinner of a very hot and spicy mushroom masala and rice and then catch up with emails and update the website. I chat to mum for ages before we head back to our room. On trying to bolt the door I jam my thumb which hurts so much I can’t even cry so I swear a lot instead, take 2 paracetamol and eventually get into bed.

Well I guess this will be a different New Years Eve to any we have experienced in the past. As Ali and Maisie often go to their Dads in Bournemouth at New Year we alternately either spend it at the pub with friends or go to a party at mums depending on whether we have the kids with us or not.

It was around 8.30 when we woke up this morning and we made our way over the road for a Poonja breakfast which consisted of fresh pineapple juice, cereal, eggs, toast and coffee – plenty to keep us going until tonight and not bad for 120 rupees.

We got our tickets for tonight’s African themed party and decided to visit to the beach which is apparently best accessed through a hotel called The Silver Sands Resort around a 20 minute taxi ride away. Unfortunately when we arrive there is a sign on the gate saying hotel guests only for the 31st December. What a pain and the fella on the gate is having none of it when we try and persuade him to let us in.

We ask the taxi driver where to go and he takes us to the public beach 1.5 km away. It turns out to be quite pretty and we feel like real travellers as we are certainly well off the beaten track here. A deserted beach comes at a price though and we soon realise this also means no sun lounger, umbrella etc and there is very little shade apart from a few scraggy palm trees. We decide to stay for a couple of hours max and this turns out to be long enough. Simon and the kids have a good time playing in the sea but I feel far too self conscious to strip off to my bikini and stay covered up. Despite this I feel like the local tourist attraction as men and young boys all keep wandering over for a good stare.

On the way back from the beach I take the opportunity to have a good look around. Despite there being very little to do I like Mangalore, it seems to be a very laid back and peaceful place and we have been laughing at some of the sights we have seen here.

Maisie now has a bad ear and when we asked for a pharmacy we were directed to “Chemist for all sex problems”. We have also seen lots of signs advertising “The Worlds Last Cannibal”  not too sure whether this is a film or live show but we decide against trying to find out. There are also signs everywhere for palmistry and I would like to go and have our palms read but Simon thinks it’s all a load of crap and refuses to spend a single rupee on it!

At 8pm we make our way across the road to The Poonja International Hotel. The party is on the rooftop and we sit in the bar for an hour first having a drink. I’m developing quite a taste for gin and it goes down well with fresh lime juice and soda water.

When we go through we are fairly bemused to find cat masks on the tables and hats with Happy Birthday on them but put them on anyway and enter into the spirit of it. You would be hard pushed to find any evidence of an African theme but the evening starts off well when Ali beats a group of little girls in the musical statutes competition and wins himself a Bacardi Breezer umbrella. There are a number of competitions some of which we enter and the kids are pretty game considering we are the only westerners there.

These are followed by singers, dance acts and a live band which are all entertaining. Although I don’t think they are necessarily meant to be funny, we can’t help laughing at some of them and have a great night.

As we haven’t eaten since breakfast we are hungry, but by 10.30pm the food still isn’t ready and we get quite drunk on the complimentary whisky and soda. By the time the food arrives I’m too pissed to eat much but I do remember it looked quite nice with lots of different types of curries, fried fish, mixed salads and rice and noodle dishes.

There is no countdown to midnight but suddenly there are fireworks in the street and everyone is shaking hands and saying Happy New Year. The four of us must have looked a bit strange linked arms singing Auld Lang Syne on the dance floor but as we are a bit of a novelty here anyway I don’t think the Indians are particularly surprised by any thing we do.

We try and make some calls home but the lines are all busy and we decide to call everyone in the morning. Can’t remember going to bed guess the Indian whisky must be quite strong then.

Happy New Year!

We didn’t wake up until gone 10 and as we’re feeling quite ropey don’t actually manage breakfast at all. We eventually make it up the road to a local restaurant and order some food for lunch. We have a few cokes and some fantastic vegetarian food including lemon and coconut rice and mixed vegetable korma and are soon feeling more up for it.

When we come out of the restaurant I see some electronic scales and it�s a major cause for celebration when I weigh myself and find I haven’t even put on a pound since we’ve been travelling � Hurray!!

We call home and spend ages talking to everyone on Skype this is by far the cheapest way to call England and it’s good to catch up on the news. We were saying earlier that we would be complaining about having to go back to work tomorrow and it is such a good feeling to know we don’t have to worry about any of that. I haven’t missed work at all and it seems a million miles away from here.

We also check our emails; glad to hear the old New Years resolution to drink more, smoke more in 2007 is going strong in Alli, Adrian and Reefer’s household – love you long time! I hope our friend Jack Daniels made it to your mum and dads!

We are leaving Mangalore tonight at 11pm on the Malevi Express train to Kerela. I’m really excited about this as Kerela is meant to be the most beautiful state in India. We are going to hire a houseboat and spend a few days cruising the backwaters which sounds very relaxing and peaceful and we’re looking forward to finding out if it really is as idyllic as it sounds.

As planned we caught the train to Kerala at 11pm last night. We quickly got the kids settled and I went out like a light. As long as I can lie down I can sleep anywhere and I have found that we are sleeping better on the trains now we are getting more used to them.

As we are travelling 3rd class sleeper we have to share our 6 bed compartment with 2 others so it is a bit of a surprise when I wake up at 8am to find 4 extra people.
Simon tells me it was like an episode of Eastenders when this family got on with tears, arguments and a lot of stress. Apparently the little boy got in the bunk with him and then fell out later and it sounded like me and the kids slept through a right drama!

We arrive at Alleppey station at 10.30am and the taxi drivers seem to be completely obstructive and refuse to take us to Cherukara Nest where we have booked 2 nights accommodation. We guess this because they want to take us to some other hotel that they will get paid commission for but eventually it becomes apparent that some sort of strike is taking place and they won’t take us anywhere.

Simon decides to phone the guesthouse and a fella soon turns up on a motorbike and explains that a hartal is taking place over 3 days in protest at the execution of Saddam Hussain. This means that from dawn until dusk none of the restaurants, internet, phones, buses or taxis will be working. This isn’t really a problem for us as we aren’t planning to do much anyway for the next few days but we do need transport at this point, as our hotel is 4km away. He explains the only thing to do is to travel by motorbike and as we don’t really have much choice, when he rallies 3 of his mates around we have to climb on.

They all zoom off leaving me clinging on to the fella for grim death and yelping after Ali and Maisie “Hold on tight kids”. As if they cared – they loved it and thought it was all a great laugh!

10 minutes later and we arrive at Cherukara Nest- oh wow what a beautiful place, it is over 100 years old, there are only 4 rooms and they are all huge with white washed walls, antique dark wood Portuguese furniture, ceiling fans and mosquito nets over the beds. You couldn’t wish to be in a more serene and peaceful setting and I’m so pleased we will be staying here for a few days.

We go through the reception and out to the garden where we have a lovely breakfast of coffee, fruit, omelettes and toast. There is a dove cote in the middle of the grass courtyard and it has the look of the jungle about it with tall palms and overhanging trees.

After a refreshing cold shower we decide to go and check out the house boats. We have been chatting to an English couple who are holidaying in India for 3 weeks and they have found a luxury boat just up the road with 2 double beds for 8000 rupees. But when we enquire we are told it will cost 14000 (around 150 pounds) We expect that the houseboat trip will be a major expense whilst we are in Kerala but feel that as we have some time here the best thing to do is get a feel for the place before we make any decisions especially concerning ones that will cost a lot!

On the way back we see a dead bat on the grass verge, its body is the size of a small melon and although its wings are a bit crumpled under the weight of a million evil looking giant red ants, Simon reckons they would span 3 feet. I have never even seen such a big bat on the telly and I hope there aren’t any out tonight waiting to get tangled up in my hair.

We walk up to a pretty restaurant for dinner but are told we can’t have any of the food we order. Although the only explanation we get is “Strawberry milkshake not possible, tandoori platter not possible etc” we guess it probably has something to do with the hartal as the butchers and fishermen have all been on strike today. So we leave there and head for a busy place in town where we eventually get some decent vegetarian food.

On the way back we stop at a shop and I quietly tell a fella I need to buy “women’s things”. Within 2 minutes we are surrounded by 5 Indian men all looking very interested and I’m getting a bit embarrassed no matter what I say to them I can’t make myself understood and I decide I will sort this out tomorrow when an old wizened man says to me very slowly like I’m the village idiot – “Can you please try speak in English Mam, it would be better if you can try speak in English !!”

We get back to our guesthouse and put Ali and Maisie to bed, sleeping under a mosquito net is a novelty and they are a huge problem here along with millions of other biting insects because of all the still waters. The guesthouse owner also burns coal with incense which creates clouds of thick white strong smelling smoke and give us coils for our rooms. Despite all this and the industrial strength repellent we have been using which contains 50% deet we still get a few bites. Still this is a small price to pay for staying in such gorgeous surroundings and I wouldn’t change a thing.

We have now come from Mumbai to Goa so that we can spend Christmas here. Goa has changed a lot since we came 5 years ago it has become a lot more commercialised , however it is still very good and were we are staying is peaceful. It is nice to be staying in one place for more than three nights, travelling is cool but a rest is well appreciated by us all.

On Christmas Eve it was really weird as instead of having a lovely meal at Nana and Granddads with our Aunty and Uncle, then going to bed early and waking up way to early the next day as you are so excited about your presents! But here there was a power cut and we had a Chinese takeaway in the dark and when the power finally came on we had to wait to go to bed as the mosquito coils burnt. As we waited me my sister and my dad all played cards, but when we got bored we played charades and that made it feel a little more Christmassy! So by the time we actually got to bed it was all ready Christmas day!

We woke up really late unlike usual a Christmas morning to a bowl of strawberry cornflakes they were ok until we smelt the bacon cooking down below! I and my mum were drawling on the balcony.

I got lots of sweets and chocolate as they would not be hard to carry and would probably be eaten by the next day. I also got a hundred pounds and a Jet Ski ride which I loved so much I used some of my money to go again the next day. On my second ride I was a lot more confident, I had already done a full 360 degree spin but unfortunately on my second attempt my Dad flew off the back and it was really funny.

We spent Christmas night at a 5star hotel and there was an amazing buffet. I had a small starter and main course as I was saving my self for dessert I had loads of strawberry coated in chocolate and a chocolate mouse a chocolate/strawberry jam log roll thing! It was heavenly.

We are now in Kerala and tomorrow we are going to live on a boat. On the way here we stopped off at Mangalore for New Years Eve the food was slow and not that nice but the party was great there was no countdown but fireworks went off and every one started shaking our hands over a 5 to 10 minute period of time.

I’m looking forward to the boat tomorrow it should be really exiting, but for now the hotel is pretty cool and a rest is nice.

Kerala is described in our guidebook book as “India showing its gentle and relaxed side”and when we woke up this morning to the sound of exotic birds we agreed that sleeping under a mosquito net feels both romantic and adventurous and Kerala is everything we had hoped for.

Alleppey is the main hub for getting a houseboat and Simon decides to go out fairly early and try and book something. The boats all return to Alleppey around 10.30 and I’m pleased when he comes back at 11.30 having booked us a boat for 110000 rupees (120 pounds). This is for 24 hours and the prices have risen considerably since the last Lonely Planet edition. The fella tells Simon that there is a huge demand for boats and although there are over 400 in this area we had no option but to pay up in order to get a decent boat.

We spend the day quietly at Cherukara Nest; the kids do an hour or so of literacy and write a comparison of Indian and English culture concentrating on food and the landscape. I am reading a novel by John Grisham and am pleased to spend the afternoon sat on the veranda. It’s very indulgent to do nothing for such long periods and far more relaxing than a holiday where we are usually busy trying to have a great time. I always try my best to get a sexy tan when we are away but as we still have 5 months of hot places to go I have found I’m not so bothered!

We sit and have a beer with an Australian called Liz who tells us some interesting travel stories about her previous trips around South East Asia and decide to try and get an earlier dinner. We put our faith in an auto rickshaw driver by asking him to take us to a restaurant and as usual this turns out to be a mistake as he takes us to the most expensive place in town. We have a quick look at the menu but as it is a set curry meal and costs 660 rupees each we ask him to take us somewhere cheaper. We end up at The Indian Coffee House which is in a good location on the beachfront and our total bill comes to 208. Much better value!

Back at the Cherukara Nest we head for an early night. The houseboat is booked for 11.30 in the morning and we want to be up bright and breezy in order to have a great day.

We set our alarm today and had breakfast on the veranda before packing up our stuff yet again. Tony the guesthouse owner has been great, very friendly and obliging and Simon pays him a little over what we owe for his troubles. Which have mainly been making lots of coffee and finding us cokes and beers at night!

He orders us a rickshaw and we are taken to the houseboat, it is a converted rice barge with an upper and lower deck, a dining area and two bedrooms and is quite luxurious. At our disposal for the next 24 hours are 3 fellas including an on board chef. All our meals are included and we ask a lad to stock up on soft drinks and beer before we go.

At around 12ish we’re off and within 5 minutes are gently floating across a huge still lake, the only noises are ducks quacking and the hum of the engine which is frequently
turned off so that we can drift peacefully. The fella’s propel the boat using long poles and several smaller boats paddle past. Someone offers us 3 lobsters for 1000 rupees but I’m glad we turned him down when Suresh the chef produces a simple but tasty meal of fried fish, salad, chilli green beans, spicy cabbage and plain rice. We also polished off 3 strong beers and 2 packets of cashews and all agree we are completely stuffed.

The backwaters consist of a massive network of canals, lagoons and lakes and with the sun beating down and a warm breeze the houseboats are the perfect way to explore them.
We pass temples and small villages and Suresh points out a coir factory. The backwaters are lined with palm trees and flat rice fields stretch either side as far as I can see.

We stop off at the riverside, Simon and Ali go to inspect some huge fresh water prawns and they decide to buy four as an addition to our dinner tonight. I was worried that we might go hungry and we brought lots of snacks onboard but I needn’t have worried as there is a large basket of fresh fruit on the table and soon a snack of a sort of deep fried sweet bread and cups of chai are produced.

I spend the afternoon lying on the front of the boat watching the peaceful backwaters go by and Simon does an hour or so of maths with the kids.

At dusk we moor up at the lakeside and watch the beautiful sunset. Sitting in the darkness in the warm night air, with the sweet smell of the mosquito coils and the sound of cicadas and some distant drumming from across the water is an absolutely awesome and magical experience. There is a full moon and although far across the lake I can just make out faint lights from other houseboats, in the blackness it is easy to imagine we are the only people here.

Our only light comes from a single light bulb and it is literally alive with buzzing insects from small flies to huge flying beasts. These in turn attract lots of small lizards which dart everywhere on the walls of the boat. My friend Nicky bought me a lovely fine mesh sarong a few months before we came away and I remember her saying to me that I would find lots of uses for it. It has undoubtedly been the most useful thing I brought with me and I have worn it as a scarf, skirt, top and dress. I have slept on it and under it; it has been my comfort blanket on bus journeys and protected me from the sun and the cold. Tonight I’m so glad I have it as it makes a perfect mosquito net and I think thanks Nicky for such a great present as we get bombarded by hoards of winged creatures.

At around 9pm Suresh tells us our dinner is ready, it looks fantastic and so much food, we’ll never be able to eat it all. The prawns have been cooked with spices, coconut and lemon and there is a spicy chicken curry, vegetable rice, chapattis and several different types of vegetable dishes. We finish our meal with some fresh pineapple and then sit listening to Ali playing his guitar; today has been a perfect day.

I have spent the night absolutely freezing my arse off, partly due to the fan and I guess the temperature must drop out on the water. At 5.30 am I got completely dressed and although I was really tempted to watch the sunrise in the end the bed won and Simon went and got some photos which I admired later!

Breakfast was toast and fruit and evil tasting coffee and we arrived back in Alleppey around 9 o’clock. Unfortunately the Cherukara Nest was all booked and we are therefore spending our last night here at The KTC Guesthouse. This turns out to been clean and comfortable and even though I have to have a cold bucket shower I feel refreshed and revitalised by mid morning.

I spend an hour or so doing science with the kids we have been working our way through the body systems and complete the circulatory system today. We never did dissect a heart; although Simon found a chicken heart in last nights curry and we all had a good look at it I don’t think that counts. We make a start on the skeletal system which I don’t think will take too long and they both try hard which is good.

We will be travelling to Chennai (Madras) tomorrow and are due to catch the train at 4pm. I feel very sad about this as it will be our last stop in India, before we fly to Singapore next Thursday. We spent ages last night with the fella’s on the boat showing them our trip photos and some pictures from home. Looking back over the past 7 weeks it seems such a long time ago since we were in Delhi but also the time has flown by.

Simon goes out to get Ali’s guitar case re stitched; we have already had this done once but as it is stuffed with music it is very heavy and has ripped again. He has been printing tabs off the net and is learning some stuff by The Raconteurs, The Fratellis and Razorlight.

We get some lunch and then spend some time on the internet; we are researching information on accommodation and things to do in Singapore. As we won’t be there for long we want to use our time well. I have a few emails from friends to catch up with and it’s good to hear their news about how they spent Christmas and New Year which now seems absolutely ages ago.

We are going to try and get some tandoori food tonight. Simon and the kids are quite uncomplaining but I am getting fed up with our curry and rice diet and we have all been fantasising about having a roast dinner. Although we love curry and will eat most things, often the choices are quite limited and non-veg is not available in many restaurants here. In fact I have been reading in the guidebook about an American style diner in Chennai that sells great burgers and for me who hates cooking but loves junk food it sounds like my idea of heaven!

Its 10pm and we have just got back, we found a good restaurant and had chicken tikka, chips and salad. Until this point we have eaten very little salad as I have been worried that it may have been washed in tap water and have relied on cooked vegetables as a means of getting the green stuff in but tonight I think stuff it, we’ll take our chances. With less than a week to go in India and no serious episodes of the shits for any of us this may be a risky choice to take, I’ll let you know tomorrow.

We didn’t wake up until 10.30 and after 12 hours solid sleep I feel great. We spend the morning packing up our stuff and have a quick breakfast of toast and fresh juice.
The kids watch a DVD of The Blue Planet and I get them to write a story about life in the ocean from the perspective of a dolphin, imaginatively called Flipper. To encourage them on I make it into a competition where they get a point for each fact and they seem quite enthusiastic about it.

We get some lunch at the hotel next door, although up until this point we have avoided this place as judging by the number of empty rum and vodka bottles piled up in the alley behind it is obviously a local drinking den. As we are pushed for time we decide to go for it and although the place is smoky and everyone already has a beer on the go we have decent veg thali’s for 30 rupees each.

We arrive at the station with time to spare and eventually The Chennai Express leaves as planned at 4pm. We are always a bit apprehensive about who we will be sharing our compartment with but the fella who gets on at the next station is friendly and speaks good English. He tells us he lives in Chennai and works as an accounts manager for Heinz, he has been in Kerala on business and he spends an hour or so advising us on places of interest in and around Chennai. He gives us his email address and mobile number in case we have any problems in Chennai and readily agrees to swap bunks with me so I am up higher and more out of reach from groping hands.

After a few hours playing cards, scrabble and reversi we settle down for the night, I can’t sleep and lie there listening to my MP3 player, my much loved birthday present and an essential for drowning out the snoring that is shaking the train carriage.