At this point we are leaving Thailand and are crossing the border into the Kingdom of Cambodia.

You'll find us now in the Cambodia section of the blog.

Thailand has been for me a beautiful country. Our planned route never worked out and we ended up experiencing a completely unexpected journey to almost deserted islands and the amazing Khao Sok National Park. Our few days spent in the jungle and on the rafthouses were absolutely awesome and definitely one of the highlights of our trip so far.

Bangkok remains my favourite city in the world, with fantastic shopping centres, spirit houses, wondrous temples, street vendors, cheap taxis, rip off designer gear, excellent transport system and millions of people it is a great place and I would recommend a visit to anyone.

After just over a month here, in some ways I feel like I know and understand the Thai people and their culture even less now than before we arrived here. The majority of people we have met have been friendly but despite our best attempts some of the people we have met have been really unfriendly and rude. As we have learnt our manners in Thai and used them on every occasion I can only assume that the famous Thai smiles have maybe become a bit jaded due to the numbers of "farang" that visit every year.

The majority of Thais are deeply religious and fervent royalists and we have seen evidence of this in every single town we have visited. We have been pleased to see less of the sex tourism side to Thailand but definitely think this is because we didn't visit places like Pattaya. (We only had one night out in Patpong!) I read some books documenting stories of young women involved in prostitution in Bangkok and their stories make you realise that even a fairly innocent voyeuristic night out to gawp at the girlie bars actually just adds to the exploitation of these women and sometimes men and children.

Unfortunately or maybe fortunately we never made it to the north of Thailand. I'm sorry about this but on the other hand we now have a great excuse to return here in a few years time.

After a 5 hour bus ride today, we have finally arrived at the Thai/Cambodian border town of Aranya prathet. We have read reports that Poipet the border town on the other side is like the wild, wild east, so have decided to stay here for the night and cross the border in the morning when hopefully the numbers of people crossing into Cambodia will be less. We will be issued with a visa at the border; if everything goes smoothly it will cost us 80 US dollars. The US dollar is the most commonly used currency in Cambodia although the riel and Thai baht are also accepted in some places. The border guards are renowned for being corrupt and apparently the taxi service on the other side is run by the local mafia.

As Cambodia is still littered with landmines, poverty stricken and a somewhat lawless society where disputes are usually sorted out by gunshot, Maisie did ask in all seriousness why are we going there? Well I think she has a point, but despite all the scare stories violent crimes against foreigners are very rare and the lure of Angkor Wat is proving too great! We researched all our trip destinations very carefully and as always when moving to a new country checked the UK foreign office website for the latest travel information last night. We're not scared just a bit apprehensive!

We stay in our room and Simon gets some food, a basic meal of rice, vegetables and green curry. After a very short hour of literacy, we watch the new Rocky Balboa film and as we have to be up at 6am its lights off by 10.

It is our last day in Bangkok and we decide to try and make it an educational one. We therefore set off for The National Museum. Unfortunately our cabbie doesn't seem to understand where we want to go at all despite showing him the name in Thai also and we have to stop and ask a few people before we're on the right track!

He chucks us out quite a distance from the museum and we decide to walk the rest of the way. It's hot but so cloudy that it isn't unbearable and we make our way along quite well. We have read recently that Bangkok has a huge drive to clean it up and it is for the most spotlessly clean wherever we have been, making walking along the streets an interesting pleasure. As we pass an ornate temple a well dressed, business like looking fella points out King Rama 3rd's statue. After a quick chat we realise he is a scam artist, big clue when he tells us today is Buddhist day and the museum is closed!

The Royal Family are of utmost importance to most Thais and deeply respected. We spent a few hours learning about the Kings when we travelled to Thailand and are hoping to consolidate some of this information for the kids today. The present monarch is King Bhumibol Adulyadej ( Rama 9th) and has reigned since 1946 making him the worlds longest serving head of state. He is immensely popular and regarded by many Thais as a semi divine figure.

The museum is interesting and we use the exhibits to discuss some of Thailand's history that we have learnt during our stay here. The kids are really knowledgeable about recent history such as the Japanese invasion during WWII and we refresh our memories of ancient history. When we holidayed in Thailand in 2005 we visited Kanchanaburi (The Bridge over the River Kwai) and were amazed and inspired by Ali and Maisie's level of comprehension and capacity for compassion when faced with the stories of the atrocities of The Burma Railway and a visit to The Allied war cemeteries. It was for us all a deeply moving experience and one which we won't forget.

The most interesting exhibits were the fabulous funeral palanquins. So ornate and beautifully gilded, the largest palanquin has carried the cremated remains of all of the previous 8 kings of Thailand. It was last used in 1996 when the present king oversaw the funeral procession of his mother.

By now we have all had enough and head off to Siam Square for some food. We decide on Ali's favourite sushi and then take the kids to see the supercars. We catch the skytrain back and they have a quick swim before settling down to some maths with Simon. I repack some of our gear and we talk about our travel plans over the next few days. We are both slightly apprehensive about our journey through Cambodia. The roads and transport system are fairly poor and the whole country is still recovering from the brutal Khmer Rouge regime of the 1970's.

We are going to try for an early night as we have a long journey ahead tomorrow.

It was great to wake up this morning and go and wake the kids up. We have decided to spend the day doing what they want and after breakfast they head for the pool. I am putting the dreaded schoolwork off for today. They did cover 2 sections of science whilst they were with Jem and Caron, so I don't feel too bad about it.

We have a quiet and lazy day sat by the pool sunbathing and reading. There are two children staying here called Callum and Hazel and before too long they are all playing together. Simon and I chat to their mum and she tells us they are on holiday for a month and heading to Ko Samui on Saturday.

By 5.30 we're all feeling a bit frazzled, it has been cloudy on and off today but very hot and we all have our showers to cool down. We collect a huge bag of laundry and I have a big sort out of the kid's clothes. We will leave some stuff here as they have come back with a few new items and some of their gear is starting to look really worn.

Maisie sits on the bed reading the Lonely Planet and announces she has found somewhere for dinner. It turns out to be a crepe restaurant and as it is only 2 skytrain stops away we decide to give it a try. The food is ok but the setting is lovely and we have another relaxed and happy evening chatting together. We call off at Haagen Daz on the way home and all end up sharing Maisie's cone. As usual her eyes are bigger than her belly!

I wake up feeling queasy, probably excited as kids are back today and can't face breakfast. We end up in Starbucks and I have a cappuccino and apple and walnut muffin- very healthy. We have decided to go to Chinatown this morning, I bought a silver claw hairclip when we were here before and want to get another.

We take a taxi to Hualamphong train station. First job of the day is to cancel our tickets to Sukuthai and get a partial refund. Due to the continuing poor air quality in the north of Thailand we have decided not to go there. We walk from there to Chinatown, it's not far and Chinatown is a completely fascinating area. There are lots of shop fronts along the amazingly busy streets, selling all sorts of stuff from red Chinese lanterns to good luck charms, whole Peking duck, live crabs, everything you would need to make shoes, nuts, fresh fruit, solid aluminium bars, gold jewellery and silk to name just some things.

We find the shop I wanted and get my hairclips, as we are walking along we realise we are outside The Temple of the Golden Buddha. We visited it last time and hadn't planned to return but decide to as we right here. The golden Buddha is one of Thailand's most valuable treasures. Its stands at 15ft, is 700 years old and is made of solid gold. Like the sacred Emerald Buddha, it was originally covered in plaster and it wasn't discovered to be made of gold until 1955. It is really beautiful and we take lots of photos and stand gazing at it for ages.

Several hours in Chinatown is enough and we catch a taxi to Siam Square. We do a bit of shopping, have some lunch and then get the sky train back to Ploen Chit. Jem has planned to bring the kids back at 6pm and we have a shower and laze around for the afternoon.
Eventually they arrive, we're so thrilled to see them and it sounds like they have had a fantastic time. They say goodbye to Jem and we have a drink before heading up the road to the Italian restaurant where we ate last night. We have an absolutely perfect evening, hearing all about their time in Ko Samui and tell them what we have been doing in Ko Chang and Ko Samet.

When we get back to The Atlanta we all jump in the bed together and watch a film. It's so good to have them back and we are relieved they are so pleased to be "home" We did wonder if they would say they had had enough of travelling and wanted to return to England but no, happily that doesn't seem to be the case at all!

It's late now, past midnight and I'm off to bed, gonna get a lie in tomorrow before we think about our next plans for travel to Cambodia.

Today we have to return to Bangkok as we will be collecting Ali and Maisie tomorrow afternoon. We set our alarm for 8am and while Simon quickly repacked I went down to the bookshop to exchange my book. After our breakfast we said goodbye to the fella at Ao Phia resort and wandered down to the road to wait for a taxi. 10 minutes later and we're on our way back to the pier, we pass Ko Samet's main beach on the way. It does look really busy and overdeveloped but we've loved it here and I'm sorry to be leaving.

We buy our boat ticket (50 baht) and clamber across 2 wooden fishing boats to get to the one we want. Glad we don't have all our gear with us, it has been a lot easier with only 2 rucksacks. Once the boat is full we set off back to the mainland, it takes about 40 minutes and its good sitting on the boat in the warm sun. We make our way up the rickety wooden pier which looks like it may collapse at any moment. I ask to use a toilet and a small boy shows me the way, past his family's home.

Eventually we get on a minibus to Bangkok; it costs 250 baht each and the journey takes around 3 hours. I read my book and listen to my music on the way, as we near Bangkok it starts to rain heavily. The roads into Bangkok are big, busy highways and the traffic is heavy but despite this the driver speeds along, narrowly avoiding several other cars on the way. The casual approach to safety is something I'll never get used to and I close my eyes and hope for the best. Happily we soon arrive unscathed and jump out into the chaos that is Bangkok.

As the traffic looks solid we decide to take the skytrain, we are going back to The Atlanta Hotel in Th Sukumvit area. The skytrain is fast efficient, cheap and easy to use and credited with solving much of Bangkok legendary traffic problem. Since our holiday in Thailand an underground metro system has also opened, reducing pollution and congestion. We get off the skytrain at Ploen Chit Station and walk a few hundred yards up the road to Starbucks. An iced coffee and complimentary brownie later and we're ready for the final traipse up the road.

Back at The Atlanta we get ourselves sorted, hot water shower is good and I sort out my wild looking hair. We are completely starving and head out for some food. We don't get far, 200 yards up the road and decide the little Italian restaurant we have passed a few times looks good. It's very quiet there and we are the only customers sat outside but the food and service are both excellent. We chat to the manager who is Vietnamese and she tells us a little about her country. It really sounds so beautiful and I can't wait to get there. She offers us lemon cello after our meal, Simon tried it before whilst working in Italy but I never have and it goes down a treat.

Get back to our hotel and off to bed the kids are back tomorrow, so excited!! Going to do a bit of shopping and hopefully to Chinatown to buy a hair clip.

When I was reading the LP it described Ko Samet as very over developed, infested with mosquitos and with a large collection of pesky stray dogs. Well just goes to show guidebooks are after all, only someone's opinion. We have really liked it here and it has definitely been one of my favourite places we have visited in Thailand. Some of the stretches of beach are quite busy, but the roads are rustic to say the least, the accommodation is basic and cheap and there are definitely more young Thais here having a good time than package tourists or backpackers.

The beach is so gorgeous, powdery white sand and the sea is clearer than almost anywhere else we have been. We have had a lovely day, sitting in deckchairs catching a few rays on the beach. I have been listening to Faithless on my newly updated MP3 player and Simon has been recovering from a late night, he sat up watching the rugby. In the afternoon we had a snack of sweet sticky rice cooked in bamboo and fresh mango. So good.

Tomorrow we will be heading back to Bangkok and collecting the kids on Tuesday, can't wait, sad as it sounds I feel like I have been ticking the days off until we get them back! On the way back from the beach we collect our laundry, never again will I under estimate what a fantastic invention washing machine and tumble driers are. Although the thrill of having clean clothes to wear is an emotion that I never experienced at home and definitely something I completely took for granted!

Well we're both knackered and plan to get some food and then an early night. Although we are in theory only around 3 hours max from Bangkok, sometimes short journeys have a horrible habit of taking all day and we're not too enthralled with the thought of a bus ride tomorrow.

Its clear blue skies today and we virtually skip down the hill looking for some breakfast. We decide that we will check out some of Ko Samet's other beaches on the net before deciding whether to move or not. I like it here and after checking the other beaches we decide to stay put, we had thought about going somewhere quieter but as its Saturday night we're more in the mood to party than sit in some secluded restaurant. Anyway we ring a few places and they're all full so that’s that, we're going nowhere.

Ko Samet is full of young people down from Bangkok for the weekend; the amount of liquor that they have brought with them is impressive, I think even Simon, Alli, Adrian and me on a big night would be hard pushed to get through that lot, although if they were here I guess we would have a little go!

We have such a doss day, thanks to Cherie for suggesting we come here, it's great, so different to Ko Chang, much busier but in a friendly party kind of way. We laze around on the veranda of our bungalow. In the evening we have a few beers and then phone home and talk to mum about their holiday plans, how exciting! We decide to have a BBQ on the beach for dinner, the kebabs are yummy and cheap and we have a few gins to wash them down.

After dinner we walk along the shores edge, there are fire twizzlers and the whole beach is buzzing with Thai's partying hard. My sandals have bust so I walk along bare footed, I did try hopping along for a little while but it was slow progress and I gave it up in the end. We reach a bar and sit on floor mats at a low table; it’s a fantastic setting out on the rocks in a little sandy space. We listen to the music, very atmospheric "Come on Barbie lets go party" etc I love it! And watch some young couple having a row! As I am about to say "I'll have a coffee please" some strange impulse causes me to say "I'll have a frozen Margarita" and before I know I know it the dreaded tequila is on the table. (Cherie do you remember that night)

As we are leaving I see a big shell on the bar, I have a listen for the sea but get slightly confused as we are right on the beach so not too sure if the sea I hear is the actual sea or not, anyway the fella says I can have it, so nice of him. When I get it home it has I love Samed carved on it. A love shell -aaah!

We have slept through for 12 hours and wake up feeling slightly more rested than the last 2 previous mornings. We have our breakfast and set off on what I can only describe as an arduous journey that went something like this sawngthaew, ferry, sawngthaew, bus, sawngthaew, coffee, sawngthaew, speedboat, knackered converted fishing boat ( worried here I may never be seen again) sawngthaew. I now have a pressure sore the size of Wales on my arse, a blinding headache and indigestion through lack of food.

Still when we finally arrive on Ko Samet I just know I'm going to have a good time here, its busy and the bars and restaurants and fairly packed but the music being blasted out onto the beach is my kind of thing. We bypass the pier beach and get out at the next beach having paid 400 baht national park entrance fees first. The roads are terrible but I quite enjoy bouncing around in the back of the sawngthaew, it’s a bit like low key mountain climbing for jeeps.

We eventually get somewhere to stay after trailing round for 40 minutes, its dark and the little bungalow we have chosen is basic but the bed is so so and its cheap. We have dinner on the beach, although we wait ages for our food, beef with basil, chicken and cashews, fried vegetables and steamed rice, when it comes it really good and we wolf it down. After a few drinks we make our way up the hill and crash out, plenty of time for Ko Samet tomorrow.

Today we have had a blissful day; we woke up and walked the 500m along the beach to The Siam Beach Hotel. This is where we will be spending tonight at least and we get some breakfast and have some coffee before bagging a couple of beach sun loungers The weather is gorgeous today, bright hot and sunny and I lie on my sunbed under the shade of a coconut palm, listening to my MP3 player and thanking my lucky stars that I'm here today and not stuck at work.

The sea is very warm and we have a great time splashing around together, it is the first time we have been on holiday without the kids for years and we are starting to really enjoy ourselves! There are some small waves and lots of bright electric blue jelly fish at the waters edge. Some people are throwing them at each other so we guess they're not poisonous. As our honeymoon was spent in chilly Majorca with Ali and Maisie when they were little we are making up for it now and have a lovely romantic day lazing around, playing in the sea, reading our books and listening to music.

I have really caught the sun today; we have been using factor 30 suncream for weeks but still seem to get a bit burnt occasionally. By 4pm we have had enough and after checking our emails head up to our hut. It is in a fantastic location high on a hill, overlooking the bay and with luxuries like air con and soft mattresses we're in 7th heaven!

We have had an email from our friend Cherie today; she has suggested we visit Ko Samet. Although Ko Chang is lovely we have found it hard to find somewhere decent to stay cheaply and coupled with a few days of cloudy weather we decide that it will be better to move on and maybe regret it than stay here and then wish we had moved ( if that makes any sense!). So it looks like we will on the move again tomorrow. We have also read today that we will be unable to visit Chaing Mai, due to the slash and burning of trees there the air quality is so poor that some governments are advising people not to travel there at the moment.

We watch the sunset from a small bar, with a beer and Pink Floyd it’s a cool end to the day. After dinner we walk back to our hut, it looks so pretty at night; the path is lit with lights inside half coconut shells with patterns cut out of the shells. We have quick shower and crash out, its very early but hey its dark and that's good enough for us.

As we were up with the larks this morning, neither of us have any inclination to do anything today. We have some breakfast, the days always seem to start well with fruit and yogurt and disintegrate into beer and spring rolls later! We decide enough is enough, although we have paid for tonight's bed after that we have to move as we are both desperate to sleep on a softer mattress. Simon's observation about the cheap beds in Thailand is that they must cost more to make them so solid. When you sit on them there is literally no give whatsoever and I can really only describe it as like sleeping on the floor at home.

We walk along to an internet café and do a bit more research on Vietnam; we will definitely have to stay somewhere better than most of the places we choose once mum and Paul arrive but obviously as cost is such an important factor for us we don't want to pay loads. It seems there is lots of mid ranged accommodation available in the places we want to go so that’s sorted.

This area is called Lonely Beach, although I wouldn't describe it as lonely due to 5 or so resorts along the coastline, where we are currently staying is pretty and fairly quiet. There are a few English backpackers here but most tourists/ travellers seem to be either Scandinavian or German. It is very green and very hilly with lots of trees and bushes lining the roads. The sea is calm and so warm and we decide to have a swim to cool down. It is extremely hot and humid but quite cloudy today and we talk about how I would be having a complete freak if we were on holiday here for 2 weeks! As it is its quite good to have a bit of a break from the fierce suns rays and I lie on the beach reading my latest book, a Jackie Collins bonkbuster that Simon says he is ashamed to be seen anywhere near!

Eventually after checking a few places we decide to move tomorrow to an air con beach bungalow, built on stilts and set on the hillside of the Siam Beach Resort. It's double the cost of this place but we don't care, it's less than a tenner and if we don't move I reckon we'll have to pay out the extra in Thai massage fees to patch up our knackered backs.

We have had a lovely evening, for dinner we chose the beach barbeque and the food was really great and cheap, we had t bone steak, chicken kebabs and huge tiger prawns with salad and best of all a jacket potato which we split in half it tasted so good we were almost fighting over it!

When we got back we decided to watch a film and choose Snakes on a plane. Unless films are really good and capture my interest in the first few minutes I quickly give up and I can only describe this film as complete pants! Simon said fortunately we were saved from our own morbid curiosity as it packed up half way through, yoo hoo for pirated copies, sometimes it works in your favour as we found out tonight!

As for Ko Chang looking a bit more inviting in the sunshine, well that’s a laugh as we get in our sawngthaew to the southwest coast it starts to piss it down with rain, great. We didn't actually wake up this morning until nearly 11 and had decided to leave. I was sitting on the veranda having a coffee when slowly one by one a small troop of little monkeys began to appear on the roofs of the other bungalows. Suddenly there was obvious great excitement among the troop as they began to jump up and down chattering away.

A fella appeared up the path with a huge bag of rotten banana and watermelon. It was absolutely enchanting and we sat there watching them quietly, by far the best opportunity we have had to see wild monkeys close up.

We arrive on the southwest coast and have a bit of breakfast, an English fella comes rushing up as soon as we get out of the taxi and does his best to persuade us to stay at his bungalows. Although they are brand new and clean they are built on what is basically a building site and we decide against it. He sends us off in the direction of the Ban Lai resort but again we're not happy. The room are cheap (300) per night but the beach is rocky and it's not pretty.

Eventually after wandering along the road for half a mile, no mean feat in 35 plus degrees with large backpacks, we find somewhere we like and stop for a drink. We would have probably collapsed from heat exhaustion anyway had we gone much further!
We spend the afternoon lying on our bed, on the floor watching Peter Duncan's family travels to China and in the evening walk along the beach to the resort next door.

Its really beautiful and very romantic sat in the candlelight a few feet from the waves, the only other light is from the stars and we can see the squid boats lit up on the horizon. We have baby clams in the pot and red snapper to eat. We get a text from my mum and Paul they have booked a flight to Vietnam and we will be meeting them in Ho Chi Minh City on 13th April yippee, so excited, it will be great to see them and I can't wait to tell the kids.

We have our coffee sat on mats on the beach and listening to reggae music, it isn't exactly serene but it's laid back with hammocks, Beer Chang and a decent book selection and I'm looking forward to spending the day on the beach tomorrow catching a few more rays.

Today has been a very long day. We did watch the rugby last night but that was the extent of our energy expenditure. As my arse has been welded to what must be the worlds worst bed for the last 24 hours you would think I would be up and raring to go but no, I'm still knackered and the cold shower and Starbucks coffee take a long time to kick in.
We have packed most things and after a quick breakfast of watermelon, banana and yogurt we wander up the road to get me a book and Simon some t-shirts.

At 11.30 we're finally ready for the off and catch a taxi to Hualamphong train station. We buy tickets to Sukothai in the north of Thailand for the 21st March. We are meeting the kids back in Bangkok on the 20th and plan to visit Sukothai on our way to Chiang Mai, Thailands 2nd largest city. That sorted we make our way across town to The Eastern bus terminal where we board a bus to Trat.

Trat is a smallish town near the Thai/Cambodia border and we are planning to catch the ferry from Trat to the island of Ko Chang. The bus rides are ok and this bus is good, air conditioned with very comfortable seats. Still 6 hours is a long time and by the end of it I'm very fidgety. I read my new book on the way, and listen to my MP3 but still am glad when we finally arrive. In between the cities Thailand is quite industrial and not very pretty in places but I still enjoy staring out of the window and watching the world go by.

As we haven't got Ali and Maisie with us we can be more flexible and less organised which isn't hard for us at the moment as neither of us are too fussed about where we stay tonight. We were going to stay in Trat overnight but decide to head straight for Ko Chang instead. The ferry takes an hour and when we arrive the sawngthaew driver packs us in like sardines with an entertaining French fella called Jean Sebastian and a Swedish family who are travelling for 5 months with their 3 daughters aged 12, 9 and 3. They have been to Cambodia and the eldest girl tells us about eating spiders (Can't wait to tell Maisie that!)

We ask to go to The White Sands Beach, it is the busiest resort on Ko Chang and even though it's completely dark before we even board the ferry as soon as we arrive I can see its not going to be for us. We wander along the busy street, lined with shops, daytrip agents and restaurants and quickly realise our idea of saving some money by staying in a cheap place isn't going to happen tonight. After trying few places we settle on a grungy little beach hut (Not on the beach) for 400 baht. (5 quid). We especially like the homely little touches it has to offer, for example all the gaps in the walls are stuffed with toilet paper and the only place to clean your teeth is over the toilet. Nice.

We have some ok Thai food on the beach and return to our little palace, there is hardly room to swing a rat in here and we're both distinctly underwhelmed, looking forward to moving to the southwest coast of the island tomorrow I'm sure Ko Chang will look a bit more inviting in the sunshine.

I woke up fully dressed with a rose in bed with me, a bottle of Singha on the floor and half a packet of Marlboro Reds on the side. Oh god.

We ventured up to Burger King at 2pm, ate a double whopper and went back to bed. Later Simon bought some disks with films on and we watched James Bond Casino Royale (for the 3rd time) and Jackass 2.

Its 8pm just going out for food, still feeling ill and dehydrated, had a fresh lemon and watermint shake earlier, it didn't mend me but has helped a bit. Simon wants to watch the rugby; I think I'll be watching the inside of my eyelids.

The alarm goes off and we all wake up and shower quickly, Maisie isn't feeling very well with a sore throat and I worry as today they are off to their Dads for 10 days. We get in a taxi and arrive early at the Sheraton Orchid Hotel where they're staying. The kids are thrilled to see Jem and we wave goodbye to them with a list of instructions about keeping up with the schoolwork, eating well etc etc.

We catch a boat back along the Chao Phraya River and make our way back to Th Khao San Rd. We sit and have some breakfast and talk about what to do for the day. It's strange without the kids and we will miss them so much. We decide to cheer ourselves up we will go shopping and get a taxi to The Siam Complex of shopping centres. The Siam Paragon was still being built when we came last time and it's really an amazing place. The shops are so good and there's so much choice. I need some new underwear and we stand looking around at a whole floor of knickers. Eventually we make a few purchases and I also buy a lipstick from MAC that costs more than a day's accommodation and food.

Ali would love it here, one floor has super cars and we look at the Ferrari, Aston Martin and Maserati shops, the food halls is also very impressive and we choose chicken and pork satay and spicy Thai sausages. I have a crumbled cookie frappe to drink - so yummy. We walk to The Hard Rock Café and have a jug of Singha, we want to buy Ali a guitar pin, he got one when we came before but lost it and we promised we would get him another if we could. Get a text from Jem they have arrived safely in Ko Samui that's good.

We make our way back and sit having a few beers. We decided last Monday that we wouldn't drink until 7pm as I'm getting a beer belly. So far we haven't managed to do it once and by 5pm we've had quite a few. We ring our friends Alli, Marie and Fe and have a little chat with them. Two hours later and we're sat in the red light district of Patpong outside a gay bar. (The liver is evil and must be punished) My memories of the rest of the night are completely blurred.

I found it really difficult to sleep last night, surprisingly enough as I had been asleep most of the afternoon. At 2am I was considering joining the throngs of people still milling around but couldn't be bothered to get dressed and eventually did drift off.

The kids Dad Jem has asked us to get their passports back from the Chinese embassy as they need photo ID for their flight to Ko Samui. This is real pain as we had planned to go to the zoo for the day and will also cost Jem 80 quid for an express service but Simon says he will go and try and get them back and we set off for Dusit Zoo. Despite being told it's closed, small and rubbish by 3 separate taxi drivers we take no notice and eventually arrive there.

We have a great time wandering around, the zoo has all the usual attractions including elephants, tigers, lions, giraffes and hippos and some extra ones such as the gorgeous Great Hornbills that I love seeing so much and 2 sweet Malay Sun Bears. It's very hot and we decide to get some lunch early around 12.30. As always when it's up to me to decide what to feed the kids junk food wins and I decide it’s a sign when someone gives me vouchers for cheap KFC - hurray!

We have our lunch and decide to head off to see the Red Panda. None of us have heard of such a thing and are intrigued by this, as we are walking along we see Simon in the distance coming towards us. He tells us that he has got the passports back with visas and had decided that any fast food outlet would be a good place to start looking for us! How well he knows me!

We passed some peddle boats earlier and all pile in them. The fella insists we wear lifejackets and the heat is becoming fairly unbearable. Simon and I peddle around the lake very slowly stopping to watch the massive monitor lizards paddling through the water.

By now it is mid afternoon and we decide to make our way back to Th Khao San Road. We all have showers to cool down and I sit with the kids and do some literacy. They write poems about Thailand using a spider plan and the letters of the word THAILAND to start each new sentence. They do well and we all laugh at Alister's "interesting and imaginative" use of sentences.

After dinner we return to The Siam Oriental and repack our rucksacks, we set the alarm for 7 and get an early night.

We are all feeling so tired this morning as we didn't get off to sleep until late and were up at 7. We get in a taxi and show them a piece of paper with the words Chinese embassy written in Thai on it. It is quite a long way from here and takes half an hour, as long as you agree with the driver that they should use the meter it is very cheap though.
We fill out our forms and leave our passports; we are supposed to come back and collect them next Tuesday but may leave it until the week after when we return to Bangkok.

By now we are all hungry but Simon and the kids don't fancy the street food and we end up in a donut shop, very healthy! Still the sugar gives us the kick needed to get going and we head off for The Grand Palace in the ancient royal district of Ko Ratanakosin.

We visited The Grand Palace last year but due to the heat didn't see too much of it and wanted to return there. The palace complex was established in 1782 after King Rama 1's ascension to the throne and houses not only the royal residence and throne halls but a number of government offices as well as the renowned Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

As we walk up to the complex the palace buildings are just breath taking, decorated with jewelled stones and gold leaf the palace buildings shimmer and gleam in the bright sunlight. One of the buildings is covered entirely in gold and mother of pearl and imposing looking stone guardians stand to attention in front of the mosaic encrusted pillars.

We pose for lots of pictures and admire the impressive architecture, despite this being our second visit the kids are really enthusiastic and we agree that the stunning buildings would impress even the most weary "seen it all" traveller.

The Emerald Buddha was discovered by an abbot in the 15th century in Chang Rai. Originally covered in plaster, as was often the case to disguise their value, the abbot noticed the green "emerald" underneath when the Buddha was dropped and chipped. (Actually the Buddha is made of jade). It was then stolen by the Laos people and eventually returned to Thailand around 300 years ago. It is the temple complexes primary attraction and a pilgrimage destination for devout Buddhists. At only 75cm tall it is almost hidden amongst the treasures that it sits upon and is always clad in royal robes, one for each season.

The only way I can describe it is like entering Aladdin's cave, everything is so glittery, jewelled and gold that we don't want to move from it and sit in the mermaid position on the floor for ages staring up at the little Buddha and taking it all in. Photography is prohibited at much of The Grand Palace and although it’s a shame we can't capture the memory of such an amazing place I know it's something I will always remember and would recommend a visit here to anyone. (Wat Phra Kaew)

We have some ice cream and return our borrowed clothing; you must be dressed appropriately to enter the sacred temples. We walk around the perimeter of the complex to Wat Pho this temple houses the worlds largest reclining Buddha at 75m long it is huge and it is almost impossible to visualise it all at once. Covered in gold leaf with panelled mother of pearl inlaid feet it is also very beautiful and the kids enjoy putting their donation money in all the 50 or so bowls that line the walls of the temples.

We get a taxi back to Th Khao San, Maisie and I are completely knackered and have a siesta in the afternoon that lasts for 4 hours! Simon and Ali wander around, having a haircut and buy a LP for Vietnam for 450 baht. In the evening we get some food and head back for a quiet night. Walking around in the heat is so exhausting and we agree that we all need a few more hours sleep tonight.

I woke up so cold as the aircon had been blasting us all night. We have finally made the decision that we are going to move on today and after breakfast sort our stuff out. We have had some laundry done and new clothes coupled with clean clothes go a long way towards making us all feel quite presentable.

We let the kids have a good swim before we leave, there isn't a pool at the new place and we figure we may as well take advantage of it whilst we are here. I lie in a hammock, reading a James Herbert novel and Simon updates the website.

By 1pm it's too hot to sit outside without a fan, even in the shade and we get a taxi across town to Th Khao San Rd. The Siam Oriental Inn is fairly basic and we are sharing a room but its only 790 baht and it has air con. As it is warming up air conditioning is becoming an essential, although strong fans are fairy effective. The temperature in Bangkok today is 38 degrees but it is predicted to cool down to 34 over the next few days. I don't care I love it. Anyone who knows me knows how much I hate the cold and I reckon it's always easier to cool down than warm up.

We are right on the front of the hotel over looking the street. This could mean it will get very noisy later but new laws introduced in Thailand in 2004 mean that bars have to stop serving alcohol at 1am so I don't think it will be too bad. We're quite tough now anyway and will sleep through most noise. The kids and I get a sandwich (Bacon!) and then I do some schoolwork with them. Much of their learning over the past few days has been about the Thai monarchy and history and we settle on science revision for an hour today.

On Saturday we are meeting the kids Dad and his wife Caron, it will be weird without Ali and Maisie for a week and we're both dreading it as well as quite looking forward to spending some time on our own. They will be flying to Ko Samui and hopefully staying somewhere nice.

Simon goes to the Vietnamese embassy and collects our passports, tomorrow we have to go to the Chinese embassy and get those visas organised also. When he comes back we go out for some food. The bar up the road has live music and the food's good and we chat a bit to some American guys about our trip and theirs.

We get back around 10pm and I'm ready for bed, we haven't made any firm plans for tomorrow but as the bed is completely solid I guess jumping up at 7am completely refreshed is unlikely to be on the agenda and I guess we'll take it slowly in the morning!

Despite setting the alarm we managed to oversleep and our plans to be at the Vietnamese Embassy at 8.30 disintegrate. Still we rush around and a 15 minute walk to Wireless Road finds us filling in visa forms and handing over 127 quid. (That was an expensive 20 minutes). On the way back to The Atlanta Hotel we get some street food for breakfast. One of the best things about Bangkok is the huge choice and variety of food you can get here. We choose waffles with sweetcorn filling, grilled bananas with coconut sauce and mini pancakes. We decide to give the duck heads on sticks a miss.

Back at the hotel the kids strip off and go for a swim. I lie on the sunbed reading Heat magazine and catching up on the latest David and Victoria gossip and Simon takes pictures of the kids jumping and diving in. After an hour we drag them away as we are desperate to get out there and have a wander around.

For me Bangkok is my favourite city. It is described as a steamy, sprawling mess and it is undoubtedly chaotic, noisy and so hot. It is famous for the amazing Grand Palace, fantastic Buddha's and the sex industry. When we visited Bangkok last year we planned to stay 2 days and move on. Almost everyone I spoke to assured me 2 days of Bangkok would be enough. In the end we stayed for a week, left feeling we hadn't scratched the surface and having completely fallen in love with the place.

There are many distinct districts of Bangkok, Ko Ratanakosin houses the Grand Palace and many other beautiful temples, Th Sukumvit has the bargirl scene, Siam Square- lots of modern shopping malls, Banglamphu the famous backpacker street Th Khao San Road and Chinatown well lots of Chinese food amongst other things.

We decide to get a taxi to Th Khao San Rd we never went there last year as we were avoiding all tourists and travellers but as it is the cheapest place to stay in town we want to check it out. As expected it is backpacker heaven and the traveller uniform is everywhere. I think if you spent a week here you would be tattooed, pierced and dreadlocked before you knew it! Maisie gets her hair braided and we all buy some new clothes. We sit watching the world going by and having a beer, Ali asks some fella if he can sit on his motorbike and is so pleased when he agrees.

We don't get back to our hotel until late and therefore eat in, I don't really enjoy dinner though, despite The Atlanta's stuck up claims about their menu having "serious and learned annotations" ( what's that all about?!) I think the food is fairly crap and I'm looking forward to moving tomorrow where we will have a bit more choice. Bacon sandwich here I come.

Last night I had one of those rare nights where I slept through solidly until 6.30am. After lying awake for a little while I go back to sleep again and don't wake until 10am. I go downstairs to try and get some coffee but Suda is eating her breakfast, a huge plate of steamed rice and chopped liver and I decide against disturbing her. She asks that we check out at 11am and we quickly shower and pack up.

We follow Suda up the road to another guesthouse; we pay for a tiny room for the day (150 baht) and leave our gear there. It means we can use the shower facilities before we leave for the train station tonight. We than make our way back to Farang Bar, this is where we spent last night and we sit having our breakfast, playing with wooden puzzles and trying to decide how we are going to while away 12 and a half hours before we get our train. We are both really anxious about getting this train; it is the main route back to Bangkok and will be full of backpackers who have been to the full moon party. Our tickets are for seats only and Simon will be in a different carriage to me and the kids. The Lonely Planet has lots of warnings about theft on this train and even documents stories of people who report being gassed to unconsciousness and then robbed. Aaargh!

As I sit contemplating a completely wakeful night sat guarding the kids and our stuff I see written in chalk on the wall - "Taxi to anywhere ask at bar". Eighty quid, a lot of negotiation and a refund on our train tickets later and we're on our way to Bangkok in a Toyota Corolla- hurray! I think we're both pretty relieved and console our selves with the thought that its 80 quid well spent and even if the journey takes 10 hours we will still arrive in Bangkok tonight, rather than in the morning completely knackered and probably very stressed.

The journey is fairly grim in that we leave at 1pm and don't get to Bangkok until 9pm but the kids are absolute stars and don't complain once even though it's cramped and the air conditioning isn't that efficient. They play on their PSP's and I read a book and although I wouldn't say the time flew, we have had worse journeys. Once we arrive in Bangkok the driver is as lost as we would be and eventually after driving around for an hour we get out and jump in a taxi. The taxi driver drives like a twat and I get really uptight. I can't bear the thought that we have just spent 8 hours from Chumphon to here, only to meet our maker at the hands of some murderous cabbie who doesn't know what brakes were invented for.

I sit with my arms across the kids cursing him and am so relieved when we reach Th Sukhumvit. We stayed here last year and it is an ok area. Most of Bangkok's sex tourists stay here also but we found it quiet enough. We pull into Soi 2 (side road 2) where The Atlanta Hotel is and at last we have arrived.

The Atlanta Hotel is a really great place to stay; built in the 1940's, I think time has stood still here. The reception has all the original features including art deco leather writing desk, alarm switchboard system and frightfully posh manager who sounds like Mr Chumley Warners. There is a sign on the first floor with the hotel rules which include firstly and most important, no sex tourists. The long list of do's and don'ts are funny but leave you in no doubt that if the rules were to be broken you would be out like a flash. It was the first hotel in Thailand to have a swimming pool and cinematic screen. The pool is original also and although the screen has long gone the rockery and gardens are exactly the same. I like spending time looking at the photographs of the hotel in its heyday in 1954 and reading the history of the place. Like Simon said you half expect to see Noel Coward sat up the corner.

We eat in the restaurant and the menu is massive, luckily now we are good at ordering Thai food and don't over order even when encouraged to by the staff! They have all been working for the hotel for years and are very sweet, helpful and kind. Our family suite costs us 1500 baht, fairly expensive but we are planning to move in the next few days and for now this place will do fine.

I woke up early having spent the night dreaming about my friends and family. For a minute I can't even think where I am and it takes me a while to get going. Simon goes off to get train tickets to Hua Hin but returns empty handed, all the trains to central Thailand are full for the next few days and it looks like we won't be going anywhere at the moment

After breakfast we decide to pack up our gear, check out and head to the bus station in the hope of getting a bus somewhere. The local orange buses go to Chumphon and as we arrive one is just pulling away. The conductor, a scary old lady snaps at us to get on quickly and we stumble up the steps as fast as our rucksacks will allow. The local buses are almost works of art. Although they are quite old the seats are made of red and blue leather and the ceilings laminated in shiny red, yellow and green with highly polished silver fittings, neat little curtains at the windows and whirring fans.

Despite them sounding quite nice though this would be a false impression. They are so hot, bumpy and can be noisy with karaoke music blasting out of the speakers at about 100 decibels. The journey is supposed to take around 2 to 3 hours and costs us 340 baht.
Four and a half hours later and we finally arrive at Chumphon. It has been a long and sweaty journey made only slightly more interesting by watching 3 monks who got on half way.

The landscape is fairly uninspiring too, quite industrial with lots of palm trees and the occasional small town. The roads are straight and I reckon if we had been in any type of half decent vehicle we would have chugged along quite well. As it is, we watch the km signs to Chumphon going down agonisingly slowly.

All Thai men are supposed to don monastic robes at least once in their lifetime; usually this is for a fairly short period of time (3 months) between the times when they leave school and prior to commencing a career or getting married. Some men spend as little time as a week living as a monk but many are ordained for life. We haven't seen that many monks in the Lower Southern Gulf of Thailand but these 3 seem quite friendly and offer us a drink.

They go to sit down on the back seat. Simon is sat there next to a young girl with her sleeping baby across her lap and the dragon conductor lady makes her move immediately. We weren't too sure why, women aren't allowed to touch monks and we wondered later if it was because she may have touched them. Not sure. As we have seen lots of pictures of monks we guessed they don't object to photography and they agreed readily enough when Simon asked if they would mind posing with him!

When the "oh so friendly" conductor finally snarls at us and motions that we should get off (and quickly) we ask a women where Suda's Guesthouse is. We're pleased to see it's just up the road and after quickly checking out the room. (Very old fashioned, spotlessly clean and cheap) we head off back up the road for a beer and some food. We have some decent Thai food, I have shrimps with eggplant and wild basil and Simon has chicken with steamed vegetables in peanut sauce. I give Nicky a quick ring it's good to hear her chirpy voice and have a little chat.

We're so tired from the travelling and tomorrow have a vile journey ahead. We have decided we must head straight to Bangkok to get visas organised and are catching the train at midnight tomorrow. The main flaw in this plan is that we couldn't get on a sleeper train and our tickets are for 2nd class overnight seats only. Oh my god will I make it through. At the moment I do feel a little doubtful.

Despite the boiling hot weather I am still feeling stuffed up with a cold and wake up all snotty with a headache, added to this is the misery of an uncountable number of mosquito bites and I'm feeling pissed off to say the least this morning. We have to decide today where we are going next and make the decision to stay here for another day until I hopefully feel better and then travel to either Hua Hin or Chumphon tomorrow.

We say goodbye to Lauren and Bina, they are heading off to the full moon party and then to Ko Tao for a few days. It's been great travelling with them and we've all enjoyed it a lot. We then phone home, its Paul's birthday today and we all sing to him. Happy Birthday Grandad XXX We get some donuts from Tescos and eat them (with 2 sudafed for me also) instead of the birthday cake that we would have if we were at home! I tell Paul we'll have a birthday toast to him later although it may be with orange juice if I've not chirped up a bit.

We then decide to phone a few of our friends and catch up with them. The first calls are a bit upsetting; Lou has broken her leg whilst riding her horse and spent the last 5 weeks in hospital having lots of surgery and Shirley needs a big hug from me. Talking to them today made me miss them a lot and I wish I could see them, I get a bit tearful and fearful of what's to come from Di and Jimi and Nicky. When I get through to Di she doesn't know who I am at first and then shrieks down the phone so loud it nearly bursts my eardrums! Happily she sounds great and they are both fine, following our website every night when they get in from the pub. Yeh that’s the spirit! Have a few vodkas for me mate! (I really don't feel like dancing tonight though!)

I spend a few hours in bed and watch Madagascar on Maisie's PSP. We have decided to travel to Hua Hin tomorrow night and are going to leave even if I'm still feeling crap as we really need to get to Bangkok before the weekend. We are meeting the kids Dad and his wife Caron on the 10th but need Ali and Maisie with us for a few days in Bangkok at least while we get visas sorted.

Maisie and I have some food at the hotel despite the fact that this place is gorgeous the food is really crap and we end up with fried rice how exciting. Simon and Ali go out to book our train tickets and get their dinner. We instruct them to bring us something nice back from Tescos, very much like a Saturday night in at home! We watch some rubbish film and pamper ourselves a bit, I figure that looking a bit more presentable might make me feel better but probably sleep and paracetamol will be more effective and I'm heading for both in a big way.

The storm that was threatening never came and we had a fairly peaceful night. I woke up once; I think it may have been around 4am and sat outside staring at the lake and the misty mountains in the moonlight for a while. Very peaceful, I felt like Grizzly Adams.
Everyone is awake by 7am and they all go kayaking for an hour or so. Maisie gets in with Bonny and Ali and Simon go together. I decide to stay and watch our gear and wake up slowly with a cool refreshing swim in the lake.

We order scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages and toast for breakfast. Daeng tells us if we get a move on he will take us to a lagoon on the way back and we pack our gear up quickly. Too quickly I realise as we are halfway across the lake, I have left my sunglasses behind. Second pair down. Damn it. The return boat trip takes an hour and as we drift silently across the beautiful lagoon I think we all feel that we have visited a really special and unspoilt place.

We arrive at the pier and get back on the mini bus. We are heading to back to Surat Thani where we will arrange transport further up towards Bangkok over the next few days, Lauren and Bina have to return to Our Jungle House and collect their stuff, they are going to come and stay at 100 Islands Resort with us tonight before heading off to Ko Pha Ngan for the full moon party and Bonny is going to stay in the treehouse in the jungle for a night before she leaves for Kanchanaburi.

10 minutes down the road and Daeng drops us at the bus stop. We thank him for a great time and ask that he sends our regards to Klaus. Unfortunately we miss a local bus and have to wait for another hour but eventually after 2 bus rides and a short walk we arrive back at the hotel. It's like an oasis in the desert and we don't waste anytime before jumping into the pool for a swim. We spend the afternoon having a few beers (and a few gins) and Bina and Lauren turn up around 6pm. We are quite tired and walk to the end of the hotel drive for some food. It's nothing spectacular but fills a gap and we head off to bed around 10pm.

We unfortunately overslept and subsequently rushed to pack up our gear and get some breakfast. Today we are travelling to Chiaw Lan Lake on a tour arranged from Our Jungle House. The lake was created with the building of a dam in the 60's and we have read previously about the somewhat negative impact it had on the wildlife and plantlife. Still the lake is apparently very beautiful and Klaus assures us it will be one of the highlights of our time spent in the Thai jungle.

Our travelling companions will be Bonny, Bina and Lauren; they are all travelling around Thailand. Bonny is from America and is holidaying for a few weeks and Bina and Lauren are on their way to Laurens home country Australia, before they return to their jobs in the UK. It's great that there are only 7 of us on the minivan and we stop off on the way at the ATM to get some cash and a snack of sticky rice and coconut wrapped in banana leaves straight off the grill.

After an hour we arrive at the pier and get on an open topped longtail boat, the scenery is stunning .The cliffs were originally coral reefs on the bottom of the seabed and were pushed up to the surface by plate movement over 225 million years ago. We watch out for wildlife and our guide Daeng points out some rustling trees where monkeys are swinging. We arrive at the rafthouse accommodation we have booked as part of our tour. The rafthouses are made of bamboo and float precariously along a line, attached to a platform. It is without a doubt the most "rustic" place we have stayed in and it looks really great. To our delight Daeng tells us we 7 are at present the only guests. How fabulous, we joke about being VIP's in a little known celebrity hideout. We inch along the bamboo platform and as it is safe to swim here, waste no time stripping off to our swim gear and diving in. The water is so warm like a bath and we have great time splashing around in the deep clear green waters.

After lunch we get back into the longtail and Daeng takes us for a walk in the jungle. At around 40 minutes it is a complete "walk in the park" for us in comparison to our trek to see the Rafflesia yesterday and we make our way along quite well. Included in our trip is a bamboo raft ride. We have been on these long and graceful rafts before in Thailand but this one has a motor and before long we arrive at the entrance to a cave. Daeng and the other guide have brought fluorescent lighting with them and light the way for us and we stare up in awe at the stalactite and stalagmite rock formations. We have strict instructions not to touch anything and take even more care with our footsteps when Daeng shows us a massive spider.

As we motor back on the longtail boat the sky begins to change colour. The clear blue gives way to black and navy and we listen to the rolling thunder of the storm in the distance. The heavy skies are hot and humid and we hope it will pass else I guess we will be in for a wet and noisy night.

We dive into the lake as soon as we get back; Bina can't swim but takes a lifebelt from the boat and very bravely gets in and has a float. Simon and Ali take the kayaks out on to the lake but return quickly as the wind gets stronger and small waves start to ripple across the calm, glassy surface of the water. By now it is quite cool and after dressing into warmer gear we get some food, steamed rice, a large fried fish, gaeng mussaman curry and steamed vegetables with fresh fruit for pudding. Yum!

Ali plays his guitar for a while and then everyone plays a card game called Backpacker except me who reads OK magazine. We have a toast to travelling, it's been really great meeting Bina, Lauren and Bonny and we exchange email addresses with them in the hope of keeping in touch. They make us offers to contact them when we reach Australia and the US and we threaten that we might be begging for a cheap bed by then.

We had to set our alarm today as we have arranged to go hiking to see the Rafflesia flower. We have our breakfast of banana porridge and Klaus introduces us to Kai, our guide for the morning. Kai has been a park ranger for 16 years and a guide for the past 10. Before we can enter the park we have to go to the park headquarters and pay entrance fees of 400 baht for Simon and me and 200 for the kids. Klaus takes us in his pick up and then drops us 1.5km away at the foot of the mountain with Kai.

Immediately we enter the jungle it is obvious that this will be a tough and tiring climb. The paths are narrow, very steep and there are lots of stones and roots to step over. We climb up for about a km and then make our way along a river bed. It is quite shallow as it hasn't rained here for 3 months and we get muddy rather than very wet. After about an hour of exhausting effort, Kai tells us that we are nearing the flower sites.

The Rafflesia flower is the one of the world's rarest as well as largest flowers. It is parasitic and only found in the jungles of Malaysia and Thailand. It only flowers once a year and once opened the bloom lasts for 4 days before the flower turns black and rots away. It was named by Sir Stamford Raffles when he discovered it whilst in Malaysia. When we were in Taman Negara the flower had opened but it was an 8 hour round trip hike to go and see it and we subsequently didn't.

At last we reach a small bamboo platform, Kai is ahead of us and calls back that the flower is closed. It is a huge disappointment after our strenuous efforts and we sit looking at a black rotting carcass of a flower and a massive unopened bud. Kai suggests that instead of turning back we continue on for another hours climb in the hope that we may see a Rafflesia flower in bloom at another, slightly higher site. We aren't too keen but he encourages us on with informative explanations of plant life in the jungle and shows us wild bee honey comb, scorpion holes and cicada nests along the way. The Rafflesia flower is fast becoming the holy grail of flowers and we keep going despite the heat and difficulty of the hike.

Suddenly Alister shouts out in excitement and there it is, at last a blooming Rafflesia flower. It is around 2 feet wide, with large spongy looking red petals and a spiky centre. It is on the side of an extremely steep and slippery slope and Kai has to hold my hand to stop me from sliding off. We take photos and are careful not to damage the surrounding area as we get close up .Its really great to see it and I feel lucky and privileged to have had the opportunity to show it to the kids. Nearly 4 hours after we set off we arrive back at the roadside and Klaus is there to meet us. We are soaking wet through with sweat and agree the hike was really difficult but well worth it.

After a cold beer back at Our Jungle House we set about moving. The tree houses have become available and we have decided to take them for our last night here. The houses are built in between 2 trees and very similar in construction to the riverside cottages. The rattan walls open up completely and we decide we will leave them open all night. Effectively we will be sleeping out in the open with only our mosquito net for shelter and it is very strange sitting on the bed feeling completely exposed to the elements. Having a shower in the open air also feels liberating ( I feel like a Herbal Essences girl) and slightly scary as you wonder if someone will come past despite the isolated setting. Simon says he has never had such an amazing view sitting on the crapper before!

Tomorrow we are leaving here and visiting a lake setting where we have planned to stay overnight in a rafthouse. I have enjoyed staying here in the jungle immensely and am looking forward once again to moving on and seeing what the next place has to offer.

We were awake before 5am and lie there in the darkness listening to the jungle around us stirring. I read that the different species of cicadas have different calling times and that their songs are so distinctive that some indigenous tribes still use them to tell the time of day with the accuracy of a watch. They are so loud and almost drown out the other noises of the jungle. Simon gets up and sits on the veranda, Langur monkeys swing along the bushes of the cliffs and gibbons call in the distance. I was always of the opinion that zoos and safari parks were as good a place as any to view wildlife and of course it is guaranteed. I wasn't prepared at all for the thrill of seeing animals in their natural habitat and how it would make me feel. Seeing a pair of giant hornbills in a tree beside our hut is really indescribably exciting and for me one of the highlights of our trip so far.

Despite the wonderful surroundings nothing can detract from the fact that I am feeling really shit and I go back to sleep and don't wake up until 10.30. We had planned to hike to a waterfall today but I can barely hike to breakfast and we give up on that idea quickly.
Always looking for the worst case scenario I wonder if I have malaria and the idea that I may snuff it in the jungle does cross my mind. Simon is completely unsympathetic to that idea though and reminds me that the likelihood of that is very low and I have in fact just got a cold. We have taken our malaria tablets religiously and I'm pleased we haven't forgotten them once so I guess he's probably right.

We spend the day very quietly; Simon does some science with the kids. The biology section of the science curriculum is now completed and I think what an amazing place to learn about plants and photosynthesis. We are ahead of schedule and have eight and a half months left to complete the chemistry and physics modules. It’s a satisfying feeling knowing that we have, despite our initial doubts taught our kids and I know they have been taught really well.

In the evening we eat by the light of oil lamps. As usual the food is really great and I have 3 glasses of white wine in a kill or cure attempt. Tomorrow we have arranged to go and visit the site of the flowering Rafflesia. This is an amazing opportunity to see the world's largest flower and we can't miss it due to me feeling crappy. I take Maisie off to bed leaving Simon teaching Alister how to play backgammon. A few years ago Simon won us a days bar bill in a backgammon bet, whilst on holiday in Turkey so I don't fancy Ali's chances much.

I wake up feeling really shite with a headache, blocked up nose and sore throat. Simon suggests we stay here for another day but I figure as we are now up we might as well get going after breakfast. We repack our gear and after some toast and fruit, Simon runs out to the road to get a taxi. We pile in the sawngthaew and ask the fella to take us to the bus station. The buses are every hour, on the hour and we figure we have plenty of time as it is only 9.40 but the guy at the station grabs our cash and chucks us on a bus that is leaving now. Still we check with the driver and it seems this bus does pass Khao Sok on the way to Phuket and I'm happy enough with that.

Two hours later and we are close to the park. We have passed lots of big lorries loaded up with beige coloured sheets of raw latex. The busy streets of Surat Thani, where the red lanterns hanging to celebrate Chinese New Year are being taken down, slowly give way to mountains, trees and small bumpy roads with occasional huts and roadside seller's.
We are called to the front of the bus and its time to get off. I'm in desperate need of a pee and am directed to a few sheets of plastic and a hole round the back of a hut when I ask where to go. Still I'm a hardcore toilet user now. Look out Nicky things could get worse! Hee hee!

A fella with a pick up asks us where we want to go and we tell him we have reserved a bed for the night at "Our Jungle House". Simon gets in with the driver and me and the kids sit in the back with our gear. Going over the bumps is an exciting experience as our arses jump up and crash back down on the metal. Luckily the most uncomfortable ride experience I have ever had only lasts for 10 minutes before we arrive. Oh wow what an awesome place, some of the places we have visit I really struggle to convey exactly how amazing they are and this place I don't even think the photos will do it any justice let alone my ramblings.

Down a narrow path, is a small wooden, single storey building with a few tables and chairs, a desk and a bookshelf. There is no one around but a fella appears down the stairs and introduces himself as Klaus. He asks us how long we wish to stay for and then suggests we leave our gear and "Let's go for a walk". We set of behind him in single file down a dusty path into dense jungle. I expected to see a neat row of wooden bungalows but there's none of that organisation in this place. We walk for a while and pass what Klaus describes as the" Thai house" first. This is a two storey structure but unfortunately not available tomorrow night. Then we pass 2 tree houses, they look great but are a long way from each other and we would rather be closer to the kids here.

Last we arrive at what Klaus calls the riverside cottages. These little wooden huts on stilts will be perfect for us, close together, in a little clearing, right at the end of a trail and on the riverbank. The scenery is truly amazing and across the river massive, sheer limestone cliffs rise 200 feet into the air. We are surrounded by thick jungle and as Ali says it is as noisy as a city, the cicades are ear splittingly loud and we all catch sight of lizards, dragon flies and other insects darting around. Maisie comes across a snake and wisely waits until it slithers off before carrying on skipping down the path!

The cottages are quite comfortable with cold water shower, clean sheets and mosquito nets. We are given a solemn explanation of do's and don'ts of the jungle including checking underneath our pillows at night before lying down. Oh my god!

We have our dinner, the choice is really good and we decide to be a bit adventurous. We choose pumpkin and bamboo spicy red curry, banana flower leaf salad, chicken green curry, tempura vegetables with chilli and steamed rice. It's really great food and we're all completely stuffed by the end of our meal. We make our way back along the path to our huts its only early but dark although not pitch black. The moonlight lights up our little clearing and we stare up at the stars and watch the bats swooping around. It is an eerie and wonderful experience. My imagination starts to run away with me though and by the time we get ready to let our mosquito net down I'm convinced there are huge bugs everywhere.

Although I knew before I started the trip I was scared of heights amongst other things, I never thought insects would bother me. As I am pottering around in the gloomy light looking for my toothbrush I tread on something warm and squishy. I shriek the place down and the kids come flying across from their hut to see what's wrong. I sit on the bed sobbing hysterically that I've trodden on a snake and insist that Simon looks for it. The snake turns out to be nothing more than the padded strap from my rucksack and eventually I fall into an uneasy and disturbed sleep.

Today we had planned to catch a bus to Khao Sok National Park but when we rang ahead to book accommodation the place was full for this evening. Simon then suggested we perhaps move to a better hotel for the day and night. What a stellar idea, the hotel we choose is only 190 baht more expensive than last nights place and turns out to be really gorgeous. The rooms are large and beautiful and there is a lovely lagoon style swimming pool, with overhanging trees and the kids spend nearly all day in it.

We also pay for wifi and take the opportunity to send a few emails and update the website. Not really a hardship as we are sat in our swimwear by the pool, sipping our drinks in the hot sunny weather. There aren't any westerners here which is good, as the huge number of tourists and travellers in this region was a bit overwhelming for us. We have a big American style breakfast when we arrive and my plans to diet again go out the window!

I check out the spa prices, for 20 quid you can have every inch of your body massaged, oiled, scraped, wrapped, manicured and pedicured and I am tempted. In the end though I'm too lazy to move from the poolside and don't do anything more than bake myself all day.

In the evening we go across the road to Tesco's. On the surface it is fairly similar to the supermarkets at home. The fruit and veg would either be discarded in England as too unshapely or alternatively sold as organic for 3 times more. The meat counter has some surprises, the meat is sort of sold loose and there is a huge selection of chicken pieces, scary looking fish with large teeth and our favourite, pigs trotters amongst other things.

We lose Ali as we always do in the supermarkets at home but rather than finding him by the toys we spy him engrossed in examining the selection of guns and flick knives on sale. We have dinner in the food court, a type of Asian instore eatery, this is a bit of a gamble as we have to point at things that look ok and see what we get with it! In this way we manage to get by and have some satay, fried pork, spicy noodle salad and steamed rice. Maisie and I have a pink donut for pudding.

We get back our hotel room and all crash out on the bed. Ali is really tired and makes me laugh when he says "The thing I like about this place is you don't have to worry about checking for cockroaches behind your pillow before you go to sleep"
On that note they are obviously having it far too easy these days, better get back to basics when we head off for the jungle tomorrow!

We were awake around 6.30am today and got up early to have our breakfast. We repacked all our gear and collected our laundry. Although we didn't ask for it we obviously got the super cheap service as our stuff wasn't even folded and looks almost as dirty as when we sent it!

Simon spends ages cutting bits of wool off our clothes, when stuff goes for washing they mark it by stitching on tiny bits of coloured wool. Presumably to stop it getting mixed up with other peoples stuff, anyway the system doesn't work as I find a pair of porn Speedo's and a t-shirt that isn't mine!

At 10.30 the van arrives to take us to the bus station, after a long wait we are herded onto our favourite mode of transport, the minibus. The driver has to be the rudest, horriblest person I have met since we started travelling and shouts at everyone to get on the bus. He drives safely enough though and when we stop half way and he gets out and gets himself a drink without letting us off I'm not surprised. I look out of the window on the way and listen to my MP3 player. The road is excellent very wide and not too busy and the landscape is industrial, with lots of trees, cream painted buildings with red roof tiles and run down looking shacks.

The drive takes just over 2 hours and eventually he dumps us 5km out of town. Simon starts to argue with him but it's not worth it as he just ignores him and tells 2 girls who ask him what we should now do "that he doesn't know, doesn't care and they should just get out"- friendly!!

I'm not surprised really as we have read terrible reports of "service" in these really touristy areas, including lots of warnings to watch your stuff as unscrupulous bus drivers steal whatever they can to make extra money. It is impossible to watch our big packs but they only have things in that can be easily replaced anyway. Anything of value stays with us at all times. We arrange a pick up to take us to our hotel and when we arrive I'm pleased to see it's really clean, with air con. The rooms can be paid for by the hour but I don't care about that as it is quiet enough at the end of the corridor where we are.

We have been thinking about where to go next. Our original plan to visit the larger islands has changed as we have realised we don't want to go to the busy places, rammed with tourists and travellers. The busier a place is the less Thai culture we experience and of course we end up paying more for everything. Although there were about 100 people where we arrived in Surat Thani only us and one other fella headed off to town. Everyone else is bound for Ko Samui or Ko Pha- Ngan.

We have discovered that the Khao Sok National Park is only an hour's drive from here and sounds a bit like Taman Negara in Malaysia. We decide that this will be a better option for us and plan to find out a bit more information about it.

We have some decent Chinese food at the restaurant downstairs and go for a wander round. There's nothing to do here and Simons hopes of watching the rugby disappear as everything starts pack up around 8pm. Although Thailand is considered to be very easy to get around, in our experience it is actually more difficult than India if you are travelling truly independently as very few people speak any English and it can be hard to make yourself understood.

We go back to our rooms and decide to watch a film. Wee have unfortunately realised today that we have lost our 8 discs that contained over 70 films. This leaves a choice of 5 that are stored on the hard drive and include Creep, Madagascar, Titantic and Alien Versus Predator which is what we settle on. As usual I see about half an hour of it before I'm asleep.

We have had such a quiet and peaceful day today. We very slowly made our way to breakfast, which seemed to take us ages to eat as we all had several courses! Simon then spent a few hours doing some science with the kids. I couldn't face doing it today and they seem to have no clue that it is as difficult for us to get motivated sometimes as it is for them.

The weather is very hot and overcast today and I'm not surprised when it starts to rain. As we have previously experienced in Asia the rain is torrential but doesn't last long and I guess the temperature hardly dips a degree.

We have a wander up the road in the afternoon and after stopping for coffee find a hairdresser. Ali has his hair cut for a bargain 50 baht (less than a quid). One of the things I am sure we will find really aggravating when we go home is the cost of simple things like a haircut. We then phone home on Skype. Mum ad Paul moved house from Plymouth to Burton on Trent yesterday and its great hearing all about their new place. I also have a quick word with my brother Will and catch up on the news of how our niece Hope is growing.

Then I speak to Dad and Pauline, its lovely to speak to them also and let them know how things are going. They said we all look a little bit wild these days on the photo's which I was pleased to hear.

Several hours later and I have earache so say my goodbyes and head for the bar across the road where Simon and the kids are waiting. We have a quick drink and decide to look for a bookshop. We buy Maisie a new book but can't find one for Ali and will try again in Surat Thani. The kids have enjoyed reading their books on bus and train trips but English children's books have so far proved fairly difficult to find.

We walk further into Krabi town. It is a lively and busy place with loads of touristy shops selling souvenirs, fake designer gear and sun cream. It reminds me a little of Hua Hin where we holidayed last year. We settle on KFC for dinner and over order by a mile, still it is cheap enough and eventually we do manage to eat the lot back at our hotel. We also bought some magazines at the book shop and I lie on the bed looking at photographs taken of the tsunami damage.

Although we have been to Thailand since the tsunami and the images of 26.12.04 were probably clearer in my mind then, nothing can prepare you for visiting those areas and seeing the damage caused first hand. The magazine shows terrible pictures from Penang Langkawi, Ko Lanta and especially the beach we visited yesterday at Railay. It makes me think about stuff, count my blessings.

Simon and the kids are downstairs watching Mr and Mrs Smith. We are moving on tomorrow to Thailand's East coast. Until this afternoon I had no clue where we were going, when and how we were getting there and am so pleased that finally I am becoming so less organised and anal about stuff.

Actually we are going to a place called Surat Thani by bus, it will take around 3 hours and from there we will head further north we think, I'm looking forward to seeing the other coast. Whether it will be completely over run with tourists though will be another matter.

Due to the heat we are awake around 6.30am and wait until 8 to rouse the kids. There is a breakfast buffet at this hotel and its very good value at 99 baht. We choose fruit, muesli and hot breakfast for Simon and the kids also. Ali, Maisie and I spend an hour doing literacy. They write a letter to the King of Thailand asking him to set up a karting track in every town. Simon then goes off to the post office, we have more stuff to post home and it costs us 20 quid to send it to Dad and Pauline's.

When he comes back he has booked us a trip on a boat and we make our way to the pier at 12pm. It costs us 1500 baht which is a good price for the four of us and we have the longtail to ourselves. We set off for Railay, this is where the most spectacular cliff faces are and we're not disappointed with the stunning scenery. The rocks are jagged and massive and rise up out of the sea. We were considering staying in Railay and we both agree we are glad we didn't. It is teeming with tourists and the restaurant we have lunch at reminds me of the cafés you get at theme parks like Alton Towers.

When we get back to our boat the fella has got 2 more passengers on it, a couple from Belgium .They're ok, they're on holiday here for 2 weeks and we have a bit of a chat. The cheeky boat fella has charged them 1000 baht and so Simon asks him to knock 300 off our price. He agrees readily enough and asks Simon to buy him a beer which placates him!

We stop off at a dive site, the snorkelling is good and we see live coral and lots of brightly coloured fish. The kids seem to love swimming in the open water and are very confident. I remember Maisie telling me only a few months ago that she couldn't swim in the sea as she was too afraid. Now she leaps straight in off the side of the boat and swims like a dolphin!

Next we visit "Chicken Island" a large craggy rock formation, shaped like a chickens head and neck named this island and if you squint at just the right angle it is reasonably obvious! There is more snorkelling to do here but I stay on the boat and chat to the fella.

One of the first questions Thais ask is how old you are, this is to establish who is senior and who is junior and is necessary for status and obligation reasons. Factors such as wealth personal and political power are also very important. All relationships in traditional Thai society are governed by lines of social rank and there are mutual obligations for both parties. The junior are expected to show a degree of obedience and respect and the senior grant favours etc. This doesn't apply to strangers but always comes into play with family and friends. For example the senior pays the dinner bill for everyone even if it empties his wallet.

We also talk about his family and he brings up the subject of the tsunami. He points out fallen rocks caused by the wave and tells me he lost his boat. Approximately 8000 Thais died as a result of the tsunami, many of them in this province. I try and tell him how distressing we found it also in the West and convey some empathy to him but I'm not sure he really understood what I was struggling to say.

In the evening we head to a restaurant with live music but unfortunately all the tables are full. Still we have a great Thai meal at the place next door. We are becoming much more adventurous with our food, although we will all try anything we have been choosy about salads but I guess the Thai salads are so hot and spicy no organisms could live for long on them and they are probably safe enough to eat if you can handle the chillies.

We head back next door for the live music, but Maisie and I are really tired and decide to walk back at around 10.30 before the music starts up. At 12.30am Simon and Ali appear back, Ali has been playing the guitar in the bar and they have had a great night.

Today we are travelling to Krabi, on the Southwest coast of Thailand; it is described as having some amazing scenic karst formations, which attract international rock climbers at all levels, tropical forests and over 150 islands that were once hideouts for Asian pirates.

We spend the morning having breakfast, waffles today and the kids have a last play in the pool. At 11.30 the minibus we have arranged turns up and we pile in. We stop off at a few more hotels and pick up more passengers. Eventually the bus is full, all but one remaining seat. To our dismay the bus stops again and it appears another 2 passengers are about to get on. Simon and I are having none of it and express our unhappiness at 12 passengers sharing 11 seats loudly. Unfortunately none of the other passengers seem to share our concerns regarding safety and eventually we get out.

We now have only 25 minutes to make it to the pier and luckily we get a lift in the back of a pick up for free. The ferry ride then takes 2 hours. As we approach Krabi, Simon gets the camera out. It is of course very hot and the rocks and cliffs of Krabi seem to shimmer in the haze of the boiling afternoon sun. The sunlight reflects off the water and the blue sky is dotted with puffy white clouds. It makes a "picture postcard pretty" sight and we sit on the front of the boat watching the sandy beaches go by and getting fried!

We arrive at Krabi Pier and commandeer a trolley to move all our gear. A pick up taxi costs us 150 baht and we head off to The KR Mansion in Krabi town. Hardly a mansion, it is an informative small hotel with an extensive menu and will certainly do for a night or so. We are amused to see that we are right opposite the courts, although our amusement is tempered slightly when the prison van leaves, packed with Thai men in pale orange t-shirts, hanging through the bars. A reminder of the need to, at all times stay on the right side of Thai law. As if we planned to do anything but. It is fairly sobering when passing through borders to see "Death penalty for drug smugglers" stamped across the bottom of your immigration card.

Krabi town seems to be a smallish and busy place, with wide roads, coconut palms and tiny food vendor stalls along the way. There are many guesthouses catering to British, German and Scandinavian tourists and travellers and we see shops selling everything from dried fish to toiletries to fake designer gear. We are becoming less and less organised with our itinerary and at the moment haven't even decided whether we are leaving tomorrow let alone where we may go next. Instead we have a few beers and some food and decide whatever will be, will be!

At 8pm Simon and the kids go back down to the bar to watch Chevy a Chase film. I lie on the bed after my 4th shower of the day and read my book and by 10.30pm we're ready for sleep.

Simon goes off on the coffee run and returns with 4 breakfast vouchers. Although I can't face noodles, sausages and French toast they all tuck in and I stick to yogurt and fruit.
We have been considering exploring the island a bit but decide as the main reason to visit this area is for the beaches we will stay where we are. Besides the kids are having a lovely time in the pool and don't even argue when I say we have to do some schoolwork. It is a beautiful place to have your lessons, over looking the sea and I think even they appreciate that.

We spend the day quietly, there is Wi-fi here so we answer a few emails and do a bit of research on the Krabi Province. I'm reading a book called American Gods which is very strange and keeps me entertained.

In the evening we catch a motorcycle taxi to a restaurant called Red Snapper, it is run by a Dutch couple and we have tapas which makes a change and the kids love it. We have had a lovely evening, chatting about their schoollife and playing memory games and catch a motorcycle taxi back around 10.30. These taxis are basically motorbikes with a wooden platform on wheels attached to them. You sit on a bench and pray, they don't go very fast and there is no alternative transport but I'm glad when we get back safely.

We ask Maisie to get out and take a photograph of us on the thing and as she steps down she catches her foot and falls off face down with her leg trapped between the bars. Poor Maisie, she has really hurt her leg and will have a massive bruise on her thigh tomorrow. The taxi driver is so concerned and upset and Ali tells him we don't need the hospital just a bit of TLC. Simon carries her back to our bungalow and we examine her leg, she is very brave, a real hero and even laughs when Simon says how gutted he is that the camera is still working which means we still can't have a new one.

What a drama! I put them to bed, we are travelling to Krabi tomorrow and I think we have all had enough excitement for one evening. So lights out and off to sleep.

Today we are leaving for Koh Lanta. Simon has been talking to an Australian couple and they are going to share our boat which will reduce the cost to 300 baht each. We repack our gear and set off after breakfast. Maisie sits on the edge of the boat and although I tell her to hold on tight, she doesn't bother and looks so relaxed, like a natural sailor!
We all chat on the way; Andy and Angela are travelling back to Australia from England for their wedding in April and have recently resigned from their jobs. For the past four years they worked on a super yacht in Costa Rica for a man worth 800 million and its fascinating hearing about their time spent with him.

Koh Lanta was known long ago as Pulau Satak. This is a name of Malayan origin and means Long Beach Island. 100 years ago the island was important to trade ships, but the construction of roads on the mainland between Krabi and Trang meant that goods transportation now takes place by road. In the late 1980's the first tourist bungalows opened on Lanta and business was booming until the tsunami in 2004. Some areas of the island were badly damaged but according to our book the "Koh Lanta Ok" campaign has ensured it is now as "beautiful as ever".

The scenery is wonderful; the tall rocky limestone cliffs that rise out of the sea are very pretty and covered with bushes and trees, they make the seascape interesting. We also pass tiny deserted coves with golden sands. Soon we see Koh Lanta in the distance; we arrive at the pier and are helped out of our boat by some fella's. As we haven't arranged any transport or accommodation I'm glad to see a pick up truck and we all pile in. We drop Andy and Angela off at the end of the pier and head off in search of the beach. An hour later and we have tried at least 7 resorts only to be told they are all full. I'm just starting to wonder if we might have to catch a boat to the mainland when success!

The Lanta Long Beach Resort has 2 bungalows available ad we check them out. They are made of wood and have comfortable beds, air con and hot water. Great! On the other hand they are relatively expensive and will cost us 47 quid for the 2 per night but we don't have much choice if we want to stay on Koh Lanta and pay up slightly begrudgingly!

The resort is right on the beach and it is really beautiful with fine sands and coconut palms. Behind the resort are mountains covered with rainforest. There seems to be one main road and there are a number of bars and restaurants, although everywhere is full, it is busy in a low key way and I agreed with Alister when he said it reminded him of Goa when we first visited India 5 or 6 years ago.

We have a drink in the bar overlooking the sea, there is a decent sized swimming pool here and the kids enjoy having a splash around for a few hours. There are loads of tourists here rather than travellers and most people seem to be German or Scandinavian. In the evening we catch a motorcycle taxi to Ban Saladan to get some cash and then ask to go to Retro Restaurant. This serves good western food and we sit on floor cushions to eat. Ali has a New Zealand steak and the Thai waitresses are obviously impressed when he finishes it all! We make our way back and crash into bed completely knackered. I think we have 3 nights worth of sleep to catch up on and I go out like a light.

It absolutely threw it down overnight and the noise of the heavy rain on the roof was awesome. We woke up early enough though and try and plan our trip over the next few weeks. Originally we wanted to visit many of the islands in Southern Thailand including the well known Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Phuket. But have decided that we will probably give these islands a miss and concentrate on the quieter islands instead.
If we are to visit Laos which we are both keen to do, we have to gain some time somewhere and don't want to miss out on Kanchanaburi or Chang Mai. We also have to spend at least a few days in Bangkok getting our visa's to Vietnam and China organised, which is cool as we both adored it there last time we went.

Simon has bought both shampoo and a razor from the shelf of supplies here and subsequently we are going to stay on Ko Hai for another day. Today is Chinese New Year and we have heard reports that we may find it difficult and/or expensive to get accommodation on the busier islands.

Simon spends an hour teaching Ali maths and then half an hour teaching me. Being so crap at maths makes me feel dumb and inadequate but he's very patient and doesn't take the piss which I really appreciate. I spend some time doing literacy with Maisie and we concentrate on passive and active verbs and spellings. We take it in turns to do some snorkelling off the beach and Simon is lucky enough to see Nemo! I only see dead coral, parrot fish and a cat fish but still its good and we all have fun.

By now I am getting a bit stir crazy, there is so little to do here and Simon suggests we walk to the other side of the island. We set off through a wide and well marked path into the jungle and within 10 minutes are scrabbling through dense overgrowth and over roots. Despite the intense heat I do enjoy it and eventually strip off to my bikini. I guess I don't really look the part in my flip flops but we have brought water, repellent and a towel with us and make our way along quite well!

At last we arrive at the Koh Hai Fantasy Resort on the other side of the island, I quickly redress and we head straight to their bar. Complete bliss, we sit on comfy sofas over looking the lovely white sands and sea and drinking Gin. Love it!

The tide goes out and we make our way along the beach to The Seafood Restaurant, we have shrimp rice, a huge salad and a whole barbequed salted Red Snapper which is really good. We chat to an English couple and their 2 young sons; they are presently living in China and offer some interesting and insightful information to us. By now it is around 8.30pm and we ask the lady at the restaurant to arrange a longtail boat back to our side of the island. The weather is really stormy and although there are only a few spots of rain, the thunder is rumbling around and lightening constantly lights up the sky. Travelling back on the boat, in the darkness is surreal and scary. We crash through the waves and I'm glad when we reach our shoreline.

Ali has heard from his friend Kate that his best friend Woody has been hurt in a skiing accident and we decide to phone home to check on his progress. This is quite upsetting for us and we all hope he is home soon and back to his normal crazy self. Get well soon mate!!!

Maisie and I crash out, it is hot, humid and sultry and soon the rains will pour down. Tomorrow we are moving onto Ko Lanta, this is a larger and busier island and although I have had a great time here I am looking forward to returning to civilisation with easy access internet, a decent bed, running water and that modern miracle, all day electricity.

I wake up to the dawn chorus; there are no sounds here except the waves, the birds and the wind blowing through the coconut trees. I wouldn't say I have had the best night's sleep, as the beds are so hard we may as well have slept on the floor but when I look out of the door I feel so invigorated and alive. It's really fantastic to wake up on the beach in such a beautiful setting. Simon goes to get our usual coffee and we sit sunning ourselves in 2 battered old deck chairs on a completely deserted beach.

A young couple from the Netherlands called Eva and Jan have asked us if we would like to share a boat with them this morning to explore the islands around us. We are waiting to see if Maisie is feeling better before we make any firm plans but when the kids wake up around 8am she's ok and says she does want to go out today.

We have some pineapple, papaya and banana for breakfast and then set off in the boat. I chat to Eva on the way, like most people we have met they are travelling the other way round to us and we talk about their experiences in Cambodia and Vietnam. Soon we arrive at The Emerald Cave on Koh Mok, for many years this cave was used by the local people who gathered bird's nests from it and then used by pirates to store treasure. At low tide it is possible to take a boat through the caves but at high tide the only option is to swim through the 80metres in pitch black. We were expecting this so aren't surprised but I think it came as a bit of a shock to Eva and Jan.

We all don our life jackets and jump off the edge of the boat and into the deep blue water. It is warm and clear, the fella's are feeding small blue and yellow fish off the ends of the boat and they are all around us. The kids of course love it. We swim to the start of the tunnel, our guide has a torch but it is very dark and cool out of the sun. We start to swim along slowly, even though we're all so close together I can touch Simon and the kids, I can't see a thing. It is quite a strange experience swimming along in complete and total inky blackness.

Suddenly the tunnel opens out and we are in the sunlight and fresh air. It is I suppose, a bit like being inside a volcano with tall cliffs stretching upwards a hundred metres or so high. There is a small beach and the water is very warm. Although it is really amazing and beautiful it is slightly spoilt by the fact that there are loads of people in there. So much for getting an early start to avoid the crowds!

We swim back to the boat and set off for Ko Kradan, this is the most unspoilt of all the islands in the Trang province and has a lovely deserted beach. We try several beaches and use the snorkel equipment we have hired to look at the fish and underwater rocks. By now it is 2pm and we're all hungry. We set off back to Ko Hai and enjoy the wonderful scenery along the way. We managed to get some photos but it was difficult due to the large amount of spray coming into the boat!

Back at our island I have a quick shower and realise that I have left both our shampoo and razor at the guesthouse in Trang. What a pain, now I have to contend with dirty hair and hairy legs and that is enough to make me decide we should move onto Ko Lanta (A bigger island) tomorrow. Still despite the misery of that, the fantastic food makes up for it and I have chicken, coconut and ginger soup for lunch. So good, I can't tell you!

Simon spends the afternoon doing maths with the kids and I lie on the bed nursing my sunburn and reading my book. Later we have dinner of fried chicken and mixed vegetables and round it off with coffee and a packet of M&M's each.

Once again the heat woke me up early and although I hardly leap out of bed, due to my strained shoulder, I can't get back to sleep and lie there thinking about our plans for the day. After showering and breakfast in the café next door, Simon packs up our gear and goes to the ATM to get more money. The exchange rate is more like 70 baht to the pound and we realise although things are more expensive than we thought, we have more left in the bank also.

I try and do some schoolwork with the kids but can't get comfortable due to my shoulder and give up on the idea for today .At 11.30 the minibus comes to collect us, there isn't anyone else on the bus and it’s a very comfortable, air conditioned ride along a decent road. It’s a fairly rural area and we only pass a few huts made of wood and corrugated tin on the way. We also pass thousands of rubber trees planted in straight lines, I had read that the whole area is a giant rubber plantation and there are small black cups attached to the trunks of the trees about a metre off the ground collecting the sap.

After an hour we reach the pier, the boat is being loaded up with supplies to Ko Hai and we share a beer whilst the fella's finish packing up. The boat is a type of motorised wooden longtail boat and we are the only passengers. I'm really excited, this seems very adventurous and we sit on the benches together until the boat gets out to sea. Before long we are speeding along, the sea is calm and so blue and tall, sharp limestone cliffs rise up out of it. The film The Beach was filmed in this area and I sing the All Saints song Pure Shores as we race along. It's so exhilarating, feeling the scorching sun and spray on my face and the wind blowing my hair everywhere; we move and sit on the front of the boat.

We pass several islands and soon one of the fella's points out Ko Hai in the distance. As we near the island he cuts the engine and we drift in over rocks and coral. The beach is about 400 metres long with fine golden sand and at the back on a grassy flat area are about 20 small wooden huts on stilts. Thankfully I don't have to carry my pack as 2 fella's rush down to greet us and carry them for us. I'm apologetic when they nearly collapse under the weight of them though!

The huts cost 500 baht each and we decide to have 2 separate ones. We check them out and as expected they are really basic with simple wooden furniture, mosquito nets and cold water shower. Power is only available between the hours of 6pm and midnight and for the first time since we have been travelling we have western style toilets without a flush. Still pouring water down the toilet to flush it is an easy enough task and the peace and solitude definitely make up for it. It is so gorgeous here, with palm trees all around and a quiet restaurant with a good menu. There is a decent selection of books available for exchange and a few games for the kids.

I think maybe half of the huts are occupied and I'm looking forward to a few days of complete tranquillity and relaxation. With that in mind, after some fresh chicken, vegetable and noodle soup I crash out on the bed for a few hours and go to sleep. With the door and shutters of the hut open it is beautifully breezy and I have a complete doss afternoon.

Simon takes Ali out for a walk across the rocks, we are planning to do some fishing and want to hire a boat and do some snorkelling here also. An English fella and his Chinese wife who are very familiar with the island tell Simon there is an excellent seafood restaurant on the other side of the island and we decide we will pay them a visit there too.

In the evening we share a green curry, and hot and sour orange curry with shrimps. The foods really excellent and it would be good to think we can avoid fried stuff for a while. As Maisie is feeling poorly with a cold I put her bed early and Simon and I sit listening to Ali playing his guitar on our little wooden veranda. What a lovely end to the day.

I awoke very early today and must be still be on Malaysia time. We have gained an hour and are now only 7 hours ahead of the UK. The rooms are very hot even at 6.30am and I get up and have a shower to cool down. The kids are fast asleep but at 9.00am I can't contain myself and go and disturb them. Their room is small and the window opens internally and I am slightly worried that they may have boiled to death overnight but happily they're alive and kicking and as ever want to know when we are getting breakfast.

We catch a tuk tuk to The Meeting Place Café; according to the book this is a good place to arrange transport out to the islands. The difficulty now arises in having to choose between paradise and paradise we eventually decide on Ko Hai. This island is only 5km across and described as having palm trees, white sands, clear blue sea and almost entirely ringed by coral. It will take an hour to get to the pier and a further hour by longtail boat to the island and we agree on a cost of 900baht. There is one slight flaw in our plan and that is that The Meeting Place Café usually only arrange transport and accommodation together as a package. The Ko Ngai Resort does look beautiful but we want to see other (Possibly cheaper) accommodation on the island also.

As there is no transport on Ko Hai we will find it very difficult to get around with all our gear but decide to cross that bridge tomorrow and see what happens. After breakfast we return to The Yamawa Guesthouse where we are staying. There is a small seating area in the reception and to the kids disgust we get the schoolbooks out. Continuing on from the literacy they did with Toby we discuss the differences between tabloid and broadsheet newspapers. Sticking with their themes from their presentations I tell them that "all cats and guitars are banned". They write 2 newspaper articles each in the style of The Sport and The Times and although it's difficult they do really well and write some great articles.

In the afternoon we get some food in a decent restaurant, there is very little to do here and we are waiting for evening when it will cool down enough for us to go out to the night market. In 3 days time it will be Chinese New Year and there are lots of red lanterns decorating the streets of Trang, it looks very pretty and we would have liked to see the celebrations but as we're now hoping to visit Laos we must keep to a tight schedule and have agreed to move on quickly.

Back at The Yamawa Guesthouse, Maisie and I decide to have a foot massage. The Thai masseuses have the strongest fingers and before long I remember likening a Thai full body massage I had in Hua Hin to nothing short of torture. Still Maisie seems to enjoy it and once it's over my feet feel silky and I finish it off with clipping my nails and repainting them in readiness for the beach.

Predictably, as the alarm went off at 7am this morning we struggled to scrape our arses out of bed. Late last night we decided that if we felt too tired this morning we would stay another day but in the end we go for it and get a taxi to the ferry port at 8am. The ferry costs us 14 pounds for the four of us and the journey takes an hour. We arrive at the Thai port of Satun and immigration takes around another hour. The immigration officials are friendly and chat away to the kids but they are knackered, irritable and spoiling for a fight with each other.

We get in a sawngthaew (pronounced songlaw) these are covered pick up trucks with two rows of benches and the main way of getting around the towns of Thailand. We ask the driver to take us to the bus station but end up getting dumped at a bus stop, still that’s ok as we want to take 5 and buy a drink.

Eventually the bus to Trang turns up. We had originally planned to go straight through to Krabi but as the kids are being evil and we are also tired we decide to go halfway there instead. We get settled at the back of the bus which is comfortable enough and empty. Just as we are congratulating ourselves on rejecting the aircon bus and going like the locals our relative peace is shattered as 5 or 6 young lads get on. They are all pissed and chatter away to us, offering us their beer and fags. We tell them we don't drink and smoke so they get out a hanky and encourage us to sniff it instead! I'm not sure if it contained anything more than snot but we only put up with them singing and dancing around us for another half an hour before we move further up the bus and they take the hint and leave us alone from then on.

Two hours later and we arrive in Trang. It is a small town on the Andaman coast and apparently a really good place to get out to some of the islands. It doesn't seem quite as hot as Langkawi but the landscape is similar. We have passed many coconut groves and there are limestone cliffs, waterfalls and caves in this area. As soon as we get off the bus we start walking, we are trying to put a bit of distance between us and the fellas on the bus. Although they were friendly I had a bad feeling about them and don't want them to know where we are staying.

They don't follow us though and soon we are some distance away and relax a bit. We find the guesthouse we want and it's gorgeous, spotlessly clean with natural, rattan furniture, crisp white sheets and silk bed coverings. We have to share the toilet and cold showers but there doesn't seem to be many other people staying here and we virtually have the place to ourselves. I bargain the room costs down to 200 and 250 baht. This is around 5 pounds sixty total. We are working on an exchange rate of 85 baht to the pound until we know better and have checked with the money changers.

By now we are starving and go in the café next door. We have sandwiches and corn. In Asia sweetcorn is often eaten in bowls with added butter, salt and sugar and is completely yummy! We check our emails and let the kids have an hour surfing the net. Their internet requirements have definitely reduced recently and neither of them has complained too much about the lack of webtime whilst we were in Langkawi.
It is very hot in our rooms and we are all feeling heat exhausted. We decide to get take out and Simon comes back with some Chinese food and a red silk rose for me, we sit on the bed, sharing dinner, drinking Chang beer and eating with a plastic spoon- Happy Valentine's Day!